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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:17 pm Post subject: Can anyone do a filament voltage mod on a Marquee? |
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According to http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip1.htm the filament voltage on a Marquee should be checked. If it is to high is should be fixed.
I wonder if this procedure is a well kept secret among the people who do it, or can anyone do it.
Is it documented somewhere I can read about it?
By anyone, I mean someone with some skills, possibly a local tv repair guy.
The reason I'm asking is because I'm in Sweden and I've only seen this done by people in the US. If needed, just sending a LVPS back an forth cost a lot.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you. Very informative.
Actually my current LVPS is shortcircuited somehow, I can't find the reason for this, so I can't start it to measure the current filament voltage.
I'm going to buy a 'new' one and I don't know anything about it, except it seems to be one revision newer than the one I have. Rev -02P instead of -01P.
The Marquee is a model 8000 so the LVPS I have is probably an older one.
Do you have any experiences with LVPS that blows the fuse (for the room) when you plug it in?
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Sparky015
Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH
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| Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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It trips a breaker in the house when you plug it in? If it does, then something is shorted. Does it trip a breaker when you plug it in outside of the PJ? The reason I ask, is that would help make sure it is the LVPS, but it most likely is, as everything else that can pull that kind of current is internally fused. Well, at least they should be. I would check to make sure the fuses are installed and no one did any funny business if you don't know the history of the PJ.
If you have a meter with the LVPS UNPLUGGED, you could do some continuity checks around where the power cable plugs in. This is all assuming your familiar with electrical troubleshooting. If your comfortable, feel free to give us more info, and I'm sure members will try and help you out as best we can.
_________________
~Paul
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Yes. I meant it trips the breaker in the house and it does so when it is outside of the PJ. The rest of the PJ is at
another location, but I will open it up and check the fuses I can find.
I should be able to do some continuity checks (UNPLUGGED of course), or I can ask a friend who knows more about stuff like that.
I'll probably end up buying a new one, but this could be good training, and maybe it can be fixed as a spare.
Regarding the filament mod.
I looked at my current (bad) LVPS and the components looks exactly as the first picture in the link I got.
If a factory mod is done with an extra resistor as in the other pictures, then mine is not modded by anyone.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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did they lift one of the leads from the resistor and add the extra resistor or did they cut a trace.
i never understood the trace cutting.
do all the leds go out after they all flashed when the lvps is connected.
macgyver on this forum has schematics for your lvps if you sent him the exact part number.
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Sparky015
Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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I wouldn't touch any mods until you get it working. Don't complicate things. Besides, you may find it doesn't even need fixed if it's within spec.
_________________
~Paul
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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The problem you're having would be solved by either replacing the LVPS altogether, or sending it to Curt for repair. At least if sent to Curt, you'll also get whatever mods it needs also taking care of.
Attempts at trying to repair serious load and shorting problems in those supples can often lead to doing more damage to them.
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:26 am Post subject: |
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You're probably right about letting Curt fix what is broken and make sure everything else is alright.
This time however, the new one will cost less than shipping the broken on to Curt and back.
If it will be necessary to do the filament mod (I hope not), I should be able to do it locally with the help of the information I got here.
Is it ok to plug in the LVPS when I have it outside the PJ? Just to se what LEDs are lighting up.
I want to make sure the LVPS is working before I put it in the PJ. Just in case there is something else broken in the PJ that will ruin the new LVPS.
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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A new LVPS is on the way so, is there anything else to check before i put it in?
I mean, I'd rather not hear a 'poff' and see smoke from somewhere inside the machine when I plug it in because of missing a simple thing.
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 2:32 am Post subject: |
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| SGIforever wrote: | Is it ok to plug in the LVPS when I have it outside the PJ? Just to se what LEDs are lighting up.
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it's ok if you consider getting electrocuted a "fun activity" 
Never plug the LVPS in outside of the chassis
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 11:57 am Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | it's ok if you consider getting electrocuted a "fun activity"
Never plug the LVPS in outside of the chassis |
Hmm. I'll have to think about that ... twice
I just thought I read somewhere, that someone had done it.
Thank you for the links. I've read them and it seems like the filament check (and possibly mod) is the most I can do myself.
Otherwise there is plenty of information of setting up and adjust for optimal performance, but right now I just want to see it turn on without any mishap.
I've found some fuses to check, most of them are inside the LVPS.
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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LVPS arrived. HVPS was ok to.
Now I have picture from my PJ 
Tried to measure filament voltage, but I didn't have small enough clips for my instrument.
I only ran it for a short time, enough to be amazed by the approx 4x3 meter screen, which it seem to have been in its previous installation.
By the way, should the P14 connector be connected or disconnected while measuring?
Last edited by SGIforever on Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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| SGIforever wrote: |
By the way, should the P14 connector be connected or disconnected while measuring? |
Connected, with power fully On.
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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I have finally measured the filament voltage and got the following result.
Stand by 4.20-4.25V.
Power on 7.50V ! It peaks to 7.70V for a couple of seconds just after turning power on but settles on 7.50V
It seems like I'm in for some soldering.
Luckily I haven't had it running much since I got it, but who knows how many hours the previous owner ran it with this problem.
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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| SGIforever wrote: | | draganm wrote: | it's ok if you consider getting electrocuted a "fun activity"
Never plug the LVPS in outside of the chassis |
Hmm. I'll have to think about that ... twice
I just thought I read somewhere, that someone had done it. |
someone might have done it, but there's warning stickers on the LVPS indicating a high risk of electrocution and I tend to follow all of the manufacturers recommendations.
| SGIforever wrote: | I have finally measured the filament voltage and got the following result.
Stand by 4.20-4.25V.Power on 7.50V ! It peaks to 7.70V for a couple of seconds just after turning power on but settles on 7.50V
Luckily I haven't had it running much since I got it, but who knows how many hours the previous owner ran it with this problem. |
if your meter is correct (quick dirty check, touch leads to together , should read zero), then it's amazing your tubes are still putting out light 
| SGIforever wrote: | | It seems like I'm in for some soldering. |
you'll need to unscrew and remove the lower PCB to do this. Just be careful with how everything plugs in, take a picture if you need to.
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SGIforever
Joined: 06 Jul 2009
Posts: 66
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | | SGIforever wrote: | | draganm wrote: | it's ok if you consider getting electrocuted a "fun activity"
Never plug the LVPS in outside of the chassis |
Hmm. I'll have to think about that ... twice
I just thought I read somewhere, that someone had done it. |
someone might have done it, but there's warning stickers on the LVPS indicating a high risk of electrocution and I tend to follow all of the manufacturers recommendations.
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If I leave it turned of now for a couple of days, when wait for the electrical components to arrive, I hope there won't be to much power left in the capacitors or anywhere else.
I will need to trim the voltage before putting it into the chassis again though which means plugging it in outside the chassis.
I can't find Nashou66 mentioning which leads to measure between. Should I measure on the rail somewhere or is it the two lower leads on the picture showing the back side of the board?
| Quote: | | SGIforever wrote: | I have finally measured the filament voltage and got the following result.
Stand by 4.20-4.25V.Power on 7.50V ! It peaks to 7.70V for a couple of seconds just after turning power on but settles on 7.50V
Luckily I haven't had it running much since I got it, but who knows how many hours the previous owner ran it with this problem. |
if your meter is correct (quick dirty check, touch leads to together , should read zero), then it's amazing your tubes are still putting out light
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I did the quit and dirty check and it was ok, but I could test it with a new 1.5V battery to.
When I come to think about it. This is the 'new' LVPS I bought. It is quite possible the old one didn't have to high voltage, just a short circuit 
| Quote: | | SGIforever wrote: | | It seems like I'm in for some soldering. |
you'll need to unscrew and remove the lower PCB to do this. Just be careful with how everything plugs in, take a picture if you need to. |
I will be very careful and a pictuer is better than a 'good' memory
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