CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Chevy-Stainless-Hex-Head-Bolt-5-16-18-x-1-96-013_W0QQitemZ390172001564QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad810451c

looks like these should do it, hex head bolt though, thanks again Scott.

dturco · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 4:17 am Post subject:

I'm going to guess "the other side of the pond" issue is in play, but, what is wrong with HEX HEAD bolts?

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 4:20 am Post subject:

You may want something stronger than stainless. Maybe a Grade 3 bolt at least.

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

Not easy finding these sizes over here not sure why but my Ampro seems to have a lot of CHevy Truck parts its similar with!

A grade 3 bolt? is that a tensile strength grade? 4 of these bolts should only be holding about 45 pounds of weight each you reckon thats too much for stainless?

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

No grade 3 bolts here that I can see mate, I have seen grade 5 in the U.S but nothing here. How does the grading system work?

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:16 am Post subject:

Grade 5 would work. I have a Chevy truck downstairs if it helps LOL

I belive ( going from trade school memory ) there's ungraded, grade 1, grade 3, grade 5, grade 8 and I seem to remember a grade 10.

I used a grade 5 bolt to tow a car ( 84 Supra ) on a car dolly once when I miss placed my hitch pin. Very strong.
Stainless will snap very easy as I recall. Also going from my 20 year old memory of school, I think there's a reaction between aluminum and stainless. BUT don't quote me on that.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:20 am Post subject: Re: eeesh

Tom.W · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

I had to reset my brain for Ampro mode Tom I have a barco 808 G S and the Ampro is totally different so brainwashing is required, dont ask me to set up a Barco now though!

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:05 am Post subject: Re: no

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

I got this from Mr Mad H from the Uk not specifically directed to me but for another guy just wanted to see what you guys thought. There will only be two unistruts on the pj though going from side to side I dont think you can attach three and I cannot find 50mm Unistrut only 41mm slotted. What do you guys think, on the right track? The picture below is what MR H was trying to explain.

2 x Ceiling mounted "DEEP SECTION Slotted 50mm UNISTRUT" 1-2m long each.
3 x PJ mounted "DEEP SECTION Slotted 50mm UNISTRUT" width of projector
6 x "10mm Threaded rod" length to suit drop required

Ceiling sections

6 (or 8) Number 8 size x "Coach Screws" - mount unistrut to ceiling approx 150mm long IF used through the unistrut, 100mm Long if bolted within the unistrut, within looks more tidy BUT you need a socket set that will fit within the unistrut channel.
Either 6 "Square Washers" for mounting "Coach screws" above the unistrut OR 6 normal washers for mounting within unistrut.

6 x M10 "channel nuts" - Go witin the unistrut, threaded rod fits into these
6 x M10 "Square washers"
6 x M10 "standard nuts" (NOT! Nylock type)

Projector Unistrut section to threaded rod

6 x M10 "channel nuts" - Go witin the unistrut, threaded rod fits into these
6 x M10 "Square washers"
6 x M10 "standard nuts" (NOT! Nylock type)

Projector Unistrut section to Projector

6 x M10 "Set bolts" - length could be 25mm to 80mm depending if you want to bolt within the unistrut OR have the final "Nylock Nut" on top of the unistrut (easier to work with)
6 x M10 "NYLOCK nuts"
12 x M10 "Washers" if inside the unistrut - OR 6 x M10 "Washers" AND 6 x M10 "Square Washers" if final nut is on top of Unistrut