CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Dear all

I got a 8500 Ultra without tubes from Curt and I have to swap my tubes from a 9500LC. At the same time I have to change my melted green C-element and put in a red C-element. I got three new bellow.

In this proces I have some question I hope you can help me with.

1. The new green C-element I got from Curt is not nearly as "green" as the old one. Will that be a "big" problem, or is it okay?

2. The red C-element I got from Curt have a couple of quite bad scratches. I have tried with toothpaste but it could not remove them. How bad is this?

3. What is the best way to clean the glycol from the tube and frame? Is that with normal water?

4. It feels quite easy to mount the new bellow and C-element. The green tube is with some wear and I'm hoping to get a new one later. I hope it is possible to change without destroying the bellow.
But when filling in the new glycol how do I do that? I got four bottles with glycol from Curt.

5. Nothing to do with C-elements, but is it true that the filament mod is not necessary in a LVPS from an Ultra? There is a small PCB near the place where the trimmer should be.

Sorry for all the questions. It is the first time for me!

Kind regards, Claus

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

The lighter green C element probably came from a G90. It'll work but it's not ideal. However, as new C elements are
no longer available, count yourself lucky to even GET a green C element.

Since the scratches on the red C element are NOT near the focal plane, you'll never notice them. The best thing you can do is to NOT
attempt to polish those scratches out. You can do more harm to the C element than the scratch itself.

Dishwashing soap and water is safe and effective at removing the last of the old glycol. Then rinse thoroughly. Last stage should
be to rinse with purified, deionized water to avoid water spotting on the CRT face. Do not use commercial glass cleaners as they
will leave a residue that the glycol MAY interact with.

You should not have any problems with the installation. The bellows is designed to mate up with the C element without the use of
any adhesive on the rim of the C element. Some people are paranoid and use silicone to seal the C element to the bellows rim,
but this is arguably not a good idea. However, the bolted-down side of the C element should be sealed onto the LC assembly
with silicone.

It's important to wait several days after assembling all the parts before adding the glycol. If you rush it, you can get leaks.

How to get the glycol in? Remove the two small allen head cap screws on top of the LC assembly. They're the fill and vent holes.

Get a plastic squeeze bottle with a conical tip. Load up the bottle with glycol, place the tip against the fill port, and slowly squeeze
the glycol into the chamber. Go slowly and try to avoid creating any bubble because they can take days, weeks, or even months
to work their way out.

Do your best to avoid spilling any glycol.

Filament mods are not needed on any LVPS made for quite a few years now. Certainly no Ultra would need it. The problem was
corrected in production quite a few years ago.

But always, check your filament voltage. Always.

CJ

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

CIR Engineering · Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:45 pm Post subject:

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Dear CJ

Thank you for answering all my questions.

I will see if I can find another green C-element.

"However, the bolted-down side of the C element should be sealed onto the LC assembly
with silicone."

That is the side with the 200! screws into the assembly right? If I need to change the tube, I need a new bellow anyway.
Any special request for the silicone?

The bolt with the spring put pressure on the bellow. I guess it is important not to put too much glycol in. But how do you determine what is enough?

I will follow you advise closely when assembling the LCs again. Very Happy

Kind regards, Claus

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Dear draganm

What is "RTV" silicone? I want to make sure I use the right stuff here!

Kind regards, Claus

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Dear craigr

Aha. If the tube is in an angle, you can put quite a lot of glycol in before putting in the C-element. Good idea. The two holes are very small.

The C-element is placed in a alu frame. It is correct you do not need to seal the two together right?

Kind regards, Claus

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

I advise replacing the fill hole screws with stainless steel ones, the original ones can introduce corrosion over time (aka "rust")

.

km987654 · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:07 am Post subject:

dturco · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 12:07 am Post subject:

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Dear Tim

I would love to change the screws, but the chance of me finding steainless steel ones with inch tread in Denmark is almost zero. And needing only 6 pcs. will make it even harder.

Kind regards, Claus

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Dear all

I now have the projector assembled again. It was easy to install the bellows and fill in the glycol.

But what is the correct level of glycol? When the projector is on a table, should I be able to see the top of the glycol without lenses or should it be higher? Any good ideas. I do not what my tubes to im- or explode!

Kind regards

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

The Glycol should go to the top of the bellow. Otherwise you might get a reflection on the screen .

Athanasios

CIR Engineering · Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:04 pm Post subject:

Just leave a smallish bubble of air in there with the glycol, but not much.

craigr

dturco · Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2010 4:20 pm Post subject:

Let's see if my idea was right. I used a lawn mower gas mixing syringe I bought it just for this, do not use one that has been used before for anything else. It will contaminate the glycol. When filling place paper towels on each side of the fill hole covering the bellow. Fill the bellow up as close to the overfill as you can by guessing. Then push your finger gently into the side of the bellow, this will create a negative space once your finger is removed. Fill the bellow until it just , I mean just barely overflows. Now take your finger off of the bellows side and the glycol will have room for expansion, and be completely full.

Put the fill screw back in and tighten carefully it doesn't need to be "aped down."

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

i havent used any rtv (silicone) and have no leaks.
nashou told me not to use any, since he is having no problems either as well as some other forum members that dont have any trouble not using rtv.
my new bellows are just being on the tubes for 100hrs and i cant detect any leaks whatsoever, so i guess its best to leave the rtv ins geschaft.
this has the benefit that u can re use the bellows upon tube replacement.

btw, did you get your marquee in deutschland.

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

oops sorry you got it from curt

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

1 more thing is that you can check the bubble holding the tube faced upwards and then you clearly see the air bubble on the c element,
should be around 15mm in diameter.

Claus_LM · Joined: 05 Oct 2007 Posts: 35 Location: Denmark

Thanks all.

So I will need to fill a little more in. No problem. I need to get the tubes out again anyway.

Kind regards, Claus