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BG808s power issue, how to check?

 
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akajester



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 934
Location: Wisconsin

Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:24 pm    Post subject: BG808s power issue, how to check?

I run my BG808s in Standby mode most of the time. I have a crestron unit that powers it on/off via RS232. Sometimes it doesn't power on like it should. I can see the wired remote is glowing. So I press the Standby button and nothing happens. If I turn the pj off with the switch and unplug it and wait a minute, it typically powers on like normal.

I recently went through the physical setup again and this time adjusted the master width pot. I noticed that this has happened more frequently since that adjustment. About 50% of the time this happens now.

Any suggestions on what to check?

I read in Curt's Barco setup quick reference (Thank you Curt and Kal!);

(1) Check the 17 volt rail with a meter. Adjust if needed (see service manual). Make sure that you use a video line frequency 15.6/15.7 or an internal pattern, also your H-width setting must be at 49 when you do this.

(1a) Check the 48V pot on the SMPS (see service manual).


I have a voltmeter although I'm not very proficient with it. Can anyone explain in newbish how I'd go about checking these without killing myself or damaging the pj? Curt mentions the test point. So I set the voltmeter to DC 20 volts and touch it with the red probe? Is that it?

Thanks again!

-akajester
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:47 am    Post subject:

Either one of those can't affect how projector wakes up from stand by, because there is only +9V/-9V lines active that time.

Stb button is not best way to open Barco, because it open that way to last active block and it can fail sometimes.
Try to open with input number button, like with 5 for rgbhv in port 5. If it's not helping it is probably controller that have problems or stb power supply is going bad.

I always cut mains with wall switch when projector not used, like I do with all other devises. Saves little energy and can prevent stb power supply failures, less hours and spikes (thunder etc.)

It's still good to check 17V line for other reasons, you need to connect black lead to projector chassis.
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout5.shtm
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akajester



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 934
Location: Wisconsin

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:13 pm    Post subject:

Thanks Ile. When I wake up the pj from standby the crestron sends it the number 5 to select the input. However it doesn't seem to matter because it doesn't fully wake up. It's like it's frozen. The fans come on but nothing comes out of the tubes and it doesn't respond to the keypad. I started powering it off completely and that works every time. I'd still like to know if something needs to be checked. I have a spare SMPS. Maybe I'll swap that in and see if it works better.

I'll check the 17V rail. So the red probe contacts the 17V rail and the black probe contacts the metal chassis of the pj? I tried this with a dryer once and it shot a fireball at me and melted the end of the probe. Smile So I want to be sure I'm doing it right.

Thanks!
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:40 pm    Post subject:

akajester wrote:
When I wake up the pj from standby the crestron sends it the number 5 to select the input. However it doesn't seem to matter because it doesn't fully wake up. It's like it's frozen. The fans come on but nothing comes out of the tubes and it doesn't respond to the keypad.
Is there scan hold down led on when this happen?

akajester wrote:
So the red probe contacts the 17V rail and the black probe contacts the metal chassis of the pj?

Yes.

Just make sure that red probe is in voltage socket (V) of the meter and black probe at black socket (com).

Once I put red probe unintentionally to current socket (A) of the meter and meter shorted 17V line to ground. Picture went dim and projector made funny sound. Very Happy
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akajester



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 934
Location: Wisconsin

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 2:41 pm    Post subject:

Thanks Ile.

Did you see I fixed the left edge issue? Funny, you were the first to respond and that was the solution. It only took me about 8 hours of reading to finally understand what you meant. Smile
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 4:03 pm    Post subject:

It's sometimes hard to understand what I mean. Very Happy

About your 1080 timings. If you adjust Hwidth so that whole raster can be seen at tubes face, how much there is unused phosphor left / right?

I think mine have about 25 mm at left and 3 mm at right. Less will cause raster ringing to left side.

Don't know how you adjusted hwidth, but this is how I have always done it.
First I adjust Hwidth to 95 from menu with highest resolution and then I adjust correct width from smps pot.

If it's adjusted too wide, projector go to scan hold down. Maybe yours is bit too wide, because it does it occasionally...
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akajester



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 934
Location: Wisconsin

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 4:36 pm    Post subject:

I definitely don't have that much space to the edge. It has to be about 10mm.

good idea with the hwidth, I'll check that. thanks!
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akajester



Joined: 09 Jul 2008
Posts: 934
Location: Wisconsin

Posted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:28 pm    Post subject:

After adjusting the max width smaller, it appears this has stopped happening. At least it hasn't happened since. knock on wood. I still need to check it with a voltmeter. Thanks!
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