CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

dturco · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:33 am Post subject:

I'm busted Embarassed

I'm still going to try it though, for all of the reasons I've stated Wink

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:44 am Post subject:

See the problem I had with wilsonart was the local Rona wanted $400 bucks for a 5x12 sheet of it and Homedepot didn't have it.

There is a local counter top place that will sell it too but I got busy with a car and didn't get to it. Summer= cars!!

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:45 am Post subject:

What I wanted to do was get a 12x5 and a 12x2.5 and do the whole wall in my livingroom with it and then set the projector to 10' wide x 8 foot high and mask the rest. Very Happy

dturco · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:50 am Post subject:

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:51 am Post subject:

The AMpro is indeed wprking. I just need to swap the input card and the red tube. BUT I have a 6 speed swap to do in my S-10 first.

Yes 4x3 screen, 1280x1024 on the PC for gamming! (<---yes I can't spell )

picree · Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 351 Location: Johnson City, TN

Mark_A_W · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 11:59 am Post subject:

lexx21 · Joined: 10 Oct 2008 Posts: 119

Mark-

What formula did you use for the paint? Was it Behr UPW as a base coat and then just go over that several times with the Gesso or did you add something else to the Gesso?

Mark_A_W · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:40 pm Post subject:

No, just titanium pigment Gesso, straight onto the rubber side of blockout cloth.

3 coats with a roller.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:30 pm Post subject:

dturco · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 2:49 pm Post subject:

Well at Least I'm keeping things lively around here. Smile

Wether or not I know anything is a different story. Laughing

I think if you are just painting the wall then go for that option. It can hurt anything, and like previously said just paint over it if you are not pleased.

For me I am going to try out the DW Wilsonart because I can use it later in my line of work, so it wont be a loss to me at all. I may have over looked that in my posts.

I will post back with the online price I found for the Wilsonart.

I have to go out. Here is some laminate by Wilsonart. Not the D/W that has been discussed, but for price it should be close.

I guess it was on sale when I saw it last time.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=239110-466-1849-35-48X096-000&lpage=none

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:29 pm Post subject:

I tested a bunch of Wilsonart samples that weren't DW. We know DW works. Stay with that one.

Clarence did a bunch of testing too. I seem to remember him saying DW was the best and some of the other whites hot-spoted like crazy.

dturco · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:45 pm Post subject:

I am going to use the D/W. I just posted the luna to show that it's not $400 in the States.

Paint will work but I THINK it's to much work for an unknown outcome. Ask Curt he got schooled by his Daughter painting a wall in his smashed door thread.

garyfritz · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO

Make sure you get exactly the model of D/W that was tested. Other finishes may hotspot very badly.

dturco · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:16 pm Post subject:

ecrabb · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:22 pm Post subject:

Double-check it in the AVS screens forum (or here), but I believe the actual material spec is D354-60. The "60" is the matte finish, which yields the least amount of hot-spotting of all the WilsonArt laminate finishes. Make sure when you price shop that you're looking at "horizontal grade" material... It's a thicker, more durable 1/16" nom. material, while there's a cheaper "vertical grade" that's lighter, less durable, and most importantly much less rigid. IIRC, a 5x12 of D354-60 should be around $125-150, but I believe some guys found it cheaper.

Here's an interesting graphic I created 2 or 3 years ago... The thread should still be around somewhere. Anyway, somebody over at AVS used a spectrophotometer or whatever and measured a bunch of different screen colors, and gave RGB or HLS equivalents... So, to compare them, I put them all in a graphic. Looking at it totally depends on your monitor, so it's not worth much in an absolute sense, but if you have a decent monitor, you can get a sense of the materials warmer or cooler. Even the lightness isn't that reliable (as far as projected material), as the gain of the materials aren't the same and would look different with actual projected material.

SC

Kiev Savoie · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 432

Spanky Ham · Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 5643 Location: Comedy Central

lexx,
If you are wanting to go cheap, then painting is your only really cheap option. A roller and a quart of paint(Behr UPW or the like) and you should be set. If you are going to paint a substrate then it gets a little more expensive. If you want to do it right, then it needs to be sprayed. You could buy your own sprayer or have someone do it for you like a body shop, but now you are throwing out more money. One of the great things about spraying is that you can get a really smooth surface with some work.

As for Wilsonart DW, it can be hit or miss. One of the ways to achieve gain is with gloss. When I originally measured the DW like four years ago, I noticed that it had a high gloss ratio. Since the quality control at Wilsonart doesn't seem to be the best, you could end up with a sheet that is to glossy. In my tests, I noticed that there were some samples that had a much higher gloss than other samples. I have actually seen it with one members screen. His DW hotspotted like crazy. I was a little embarrassed since I originally recommended it. Fortunately, the cost isn't to bad. It is usually around $100. The two biggest benefits of DW was the size of up to 12x5 and you didn't have to paint it. Clarence loved it, because his kids wouldn't be able to damage his screen.

Sometimes I think people overthink this screen thing. It really isn't that complicated. I think the screen manufacturers are trying to do some things to keep people buying new screens like these new 1080p screens. UMR just tested some screens and found no advantage to the HD screens. His test is posted at AVS. I am looking at the JKP screens samples right now. They are nice looking, but I would rather paint my own. Yes, I can and have painted my own screen. To me, the best screen for CRTs are either a high gain Torus or a nice pure white. Again, this doesn't have to be overthought as there are only two white pigments that I know of - titanium dioxide and barium sulfate. TO2 is going to be in the white paints. I haven't measured it, but my guess is that Behr UPW is all TO2. When I measured DW, it looked to be all TO2 as well. Barium Sulfate is the better pigment of the two, but is less common. If you want to make a better screen paint, then get some barium sulfate and mix it with some UPW. My next screen will probably be barium sulfate, as I finally found some suppliers that sell it for less than gold (about $40 a quart).

Oh, I almost forgot. I think someone mentioned this, but check Craigslist. I see old screens all of the time being sold for cheap. I have seen screens for as little as $10.

lexx21 · Joined: 10 Oct 2008 Posts: 119

Well, I started evening out the wall today with drywall mud. I am going to have to do several applications in a few places. so it will probably take me at least until next weekend until I can get things ready to paint.