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Marquee 8500 tube issue
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deewaan1



Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 68


Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 6:38 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
It really sounds like you've swapped over everything in the set. THe one question that hasn't been asked yet:

Does it do it without an input signal connected?


The only thing I haven't swapped out is the conv , verticle and astig board on the rear heat sink. Steve said he would get the one off his brothers machine to try if there were no other ideas from the guys. And the problem is there with and without an input signal. I did try another CLM and I pulled all the chips and cleaned this CLM last fall. Maybe I have to do it again. At this point I'm ready to pull it all apart and clean and rebuild from scratch. I didn't try the CMM board yet.
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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 10:35 am    Post subject:

This sounds like an 8500 I eventually parted out. I never could find the source of the problem although I suspect it was motherboard or backplane board related because they're the only things I didn't replace with known good parts.

What's most interesting in your case is that when you worked with the HDM and VIM you ended up with all THREE tubes exhibiting the same problem as your initial blue tube problem. That sounds to me like a harness or HDM/VIM socket problem.

I'm running the life out of a blue tube right now that I knew when I installed it a month ago would require high G2. It's somewhere around 84 or so but my brightness and contrast are 50 and 44 respectively with good greyscale. PS3 and Xbox360 look great. Do you have any gamma correction goodies in line? (You didn't say which Moome card you had).

When the thread started I thought the same things as the others and then got to thinking it might be a bad mini coax but you blew that theory away by reporting you'd managed to create the issue on all three tubes. The little buggers (mini coax) are easy to break without just the right twisting and coaxing of the 90 degree mini RCA connectors.

Out of curiosity, did you use a lint free cloth or Q-tip to clean the chips and sockets, or a paper towel? Paper towels are the absolute worst thing you can use. You're better off using an old T-shirt than a paper towel. I'd go back to the HDM and VIM and re clean everything again if for nothing else than to see if you can restore the set to the blue tube only problem.

Worse comes to worse, I'd tear it down to the frame and check continuity from the sockets thru the harness and on to their card edge terminations at the LVPS and HVPS, backplane etc. The others here can suggest ways to check the motherboard and backplane. A broken trace or bad solder joint isn't out of the realm of possibility either.
Wiggle the wires at the connectors while connected to your DVM and mark each successful one with a paint pen or the like so you don't lose track of what you've done.
Hmmm. A strange one for sure.

_________________
Greg

"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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energeezer



Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 67


Posted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 7:32 pm    Post subject:

JustGreg wrote:


What's most interesting in your case is that when you worked with the HDM and VIM you ended up with all THREE tubes exhibiting the same problem as your initial blue tube problem. That sounds to me like a harness or HDM/VIM socket problem.



D
I think the above is a very rel possibility. Because the issue travelled to all 3 tubes prior to pulling the VIM perhaps we should look at the harness and sockets on the HDM first.
Can you give the sockets and connectors a real good clean first and see if there is any change? Perhaps wiggle the socket at the base of the HDM box.
Take a real good look with a bright light for swarf, oxidation etc on the socket. I suppose you could even tap the motherboard lightly with a plastic poker near the HDM socket with the power on and see if anything changes.

I'll get the v board and back plane if necessary.

Keep me posted.

Steve
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deewaan1



Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 68


Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:23 am    Post subject:

Hey all. Thanks for all the help so far. Still got the problem though. Here's what I've done since the last communication.

I've completely taken the projector apart an cleaned all connections ( connectors, chips and sockets, cable terminations ) from every board including the neck boards. I've tried swapping the HDM, Focus board, VIM, Color Correction, Conv board, Verticle board, Astig board, Video/S-video input board, Moome card, CLM board, HVPS, LVPS. I have also swapped the neck boards between the three tubes. I even tried swapping the ribbon cables to the back panel boards. All this and nothing still has the same issue. No improvement. Tomorrow I am going to get another high voltage splitter and try that. I am also thinking of trying to disable one tube at a time and see if one tube is possibly sending some feedback into the system which is causing the second set of scan lines. What is the best and safest way to disable a tube and still be able to power up the projector to see if the other tubes are still affected?
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 1:55 am    Post subject:

Some marquees will power up with the black umbilical VNB cable disconnected. it will run for a few minutes so you can see which tube is causing the problem. I havent read this in awhile so I forgot what the problem was!! Wink

Athanasios

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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 4:37 pm    Post subject:

Nashou66 wrote:
Some marquees will power up with the black umbilical VNB cable disconnected. it will run for a few minutes so you can see which tube is causing the problem. I havent read this in awhile so I forgot what the problem was!! Wink

Athanasios
why not just slide the VNB completely off including the G2 bias wire and set it aside?
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 5:16 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
Nashou66 wrote:
Some marquees will power up with the black umbilical VNB cable disconnected. it will run for a few minutes so you can see which tube is causing the problem. I havent read this in awhile so I forgot what the problem was!! Wink

Athanasios
why not just slide the VNB completely off including the G2 bias wire and set it aside?


For simplicity, you do not have to remove the card cage, Just one connector.

Athanasios

_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher


"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

One Smart Dog!!!

Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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View user's photo album (1 photos)
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