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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 3:40 pm Post subject: Almost ready to install my Chief electric mount. |
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Ok, I'm almost ready to install my Chief electric lift, and have a couple of questions. My theater room in the basement has wood I beams in the ceiling, and the spot where I need to install has a heating duct running through it. My questions relate to support blocks between the I beams, and the actual installation of the lift through the bottom support block.
I drew a crude diagram of how I think it should go, but would love some input.
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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Do I drill a hole in the bottom support block and feed the threaded mounting tube through the hole, and then put the nut on. Here is a pic of the lift with the round tube on top for mounting.
Last edited by daves123 on Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Ben851
Joined: 13 Sep 2008
Posts: 221
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 3:56 pm Post subject: |
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Seems to be a well thought and sturdy way to do it to me. And yes drill your hole in the wood just as you have shown in your pic.
Is the bottom part where your lift is bolting through a couple of 2x4's on end? More than strong enough for 250 Lbs. 
If so make sure to glue them to each other and use screws also staying clear of the part you are going to drill into.
Just to save your drill bit or hole saw a lot of wear.
One more thing if that "nub" that has to go through is larger than 1" use at least 3 2x4's. sandwiched together.
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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I was going to use 2x8's to build the U. I never thought about using glue as well as screws. Will do, thanks.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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That works too.
Now lets see what happens when all the over building engineers chime in.
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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Nope. I saw that one as well, and did bid on it. I was thinking of using it with my bedroom pj, but it went for more than I was willing to pay. I actually found one locally in Toronto on kijiji, and got a great deal on it.
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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Looks pretty good to me. (I'm an over-engineering type) Can you use the four bolts that hold that plate with the nub on? Remove the plate and just run bolts thru the bottom of the U into the mount? Might gain some headroom that way.
I was the $99.98 starting bid on that. 
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MikeEby
Joined: 24 Jun 2007
Posts: 5237
Location: Osceola, Indiana
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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I've posted these before...Not the greatest shot...But looks close to your idea. My Chief lift didn't come with the mounting hardware like yours...It was just like the one on Ebay. I used uni-strut... This way I could move the setup to maximize tube face usage.
The projector is recessed into a soffit.
Mike
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Last edited by MikeEby on Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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The four bolts that hold the plate actually come out of the lift, so that doesn't seem to be an option. The university that owned the lift fabricated a steel plate to go under the large nut, and on top of the support block.
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nuttall_chris
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 832
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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| daves123 wrote: | Do I drill a hole in the bottom support block and feed the threaded mounting tube through the hole, and then put the nut on. Here is a pic of the lift with the round tube on top for mounting.
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I guess that's not an actual picture of your lift as you snagged that picture from my forsale ad from Oct 2007 
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=7104.html
Chris.
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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Nope, not my actual lift, just a pic I found on this site. Hope you don't mind Mine is on the floor in my very dark theater room. I was trying to show a good pic of the mounting plate with the tube sticking out of it, and your was the best I found on google images.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
Posts: 3778
Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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| jkruger wrote: | Looks pretty good to me. (I'm an over-engineering type) Can you use the four bolts that hold that plate with the nub on? Remove the plate and just run bolts thru the bottom of the U into the mount? Might gain some headroom that way.
I was the $99.98 starting bid on that. |
Over-engineering type is one thing. {overly instructive, tearing someone down ,or redoing the whole process because my way is better type] is who I was eluding to. And that ain't your style.
I have never found you to be that way jkruger.
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Firefly rules. Can't stop the signal.
http://www.hulu.com/firefly
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:49 pm Post subject: |
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Mike, what kind of beams do you have in your ceiling? Mine are engineered I beams, they have a 2x2 on the bottom and the top and particle board in the middle.
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Hahaha! You should see my PJ mount. It could hold up a small car. Four 1/2" high tensile threaded rods and unistrut over the 8 x 18" beam in the top of the garage loft. Way overkill. I call it earthquake proofing.
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MikeEby
Joined: 24 Jun 2007
Posts: 5237
Location: Osceola, Indiana
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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| daves123 wrote: | | Mike, what kind of beams do you have in your ceiling? Mine are engineered I beams, they have a 2x2 on the bottom and the top and particle board in the middle. |
Mine are just plain old 2X10's. Engineered beams could be a challenge. I didn't feel comfortable just lagging in from the bottom. I drilled holes threw the joist then bolted uni-strut "L" brackets to the joist, then bolted the uni-strut to the "L" brackets. I think your beams run the other direction, so this would not really be an option.
Mike
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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tri_joel
Joined: 03 Jul 2007
Posts: 646
Location: Northern Virginia
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not the one to tell what you are doing is right or wrong, but please look at page 6 in the upper left hand corner of this document: http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-9001.pdf
Suspended loads need to be through the web of TJI's.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009
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Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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daves123
Joined: 16 Jan 2009
Posts: 126
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| Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:31 am Post subject: |
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| tri_joel wrote: | I'm not the one to tell what you are doing is right or wrong, but please look at page 6 in the upper left hand corner of this document: http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-9001.pdf
Suspended loads need to be through the web of TJI's. |
The part about using engineered lumber as backing, because regular cut wood can shrink. Can I just go to home depot and ask for engineered lumber? Can it be cut? Sorry, I don't know a lot about wood.
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