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TClinton
Joined: 22 May 2009 Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 5:26 pm Post subject: need Marquee CRT setup help in Daytona Beach, FL |
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I need help adjusting my Electrohome Marquee 9500LC. I just had the High Voltage Power Supply repaired and a small mod made to my CLM board. Unfortunately, it appears that the previous setup numbers were lost. I need help getting some of the basic setup stuff right. For example, when I display the Green test pattern on my 80" Wide screen the basic geometry is way off.... i.e. not symmetrical and I don't really know where to start to fix it. I recently had the middle and Left side of the Green pattern close but the Right side was way off. When I tried to do a basic electronic alignment of the Red and Blue tubes I was not able to match it up with the Green tube pattern on the Right side and the picture looks terrible there. I don't understand some of the basic differences between physical geometry setup using the wingnuts on the sides of the tubes and using the electronic controls from the remote.
I also had what appears to me to be a substantial leak of fluid from 1 or more of my tubes. I found this out when I went to remove the HVPS and LVPS for repair (the LVPS was fine). I found about 2 oz. or so of fluid on the bottom forward section belly pan when I removed it. My projector is ceiling mounted. This doesn't seem good???
I would really appreciate anyone that is knowledgeable about the Marquee projector in my area to contact me. I want to learn as much as I can so I can do some of this myself in the future. I really want to get this projector to perform to its true potential.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Sincerely, Tony Clinton
Last edited by TClinton on Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 6:44 pm Post subject: Re: need Marquee CRT setup help in Daytona Beach, FL |
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| TClinton wrote: | | I need help adjusting my Electrohome Marquee 9500LC. | actually you need a basic set-up guide you can follow. I will send you onew in a PM or e-mail if you like. It's fairly simple 7 pages to get you a good basic set-up
| TClinton wrote: | | I don't understand some of the basic differences between physical geometry setup using the wingnuts on the sides of the tubes and using the electronic controls from the remote. | the wing nuts are for Focus, they have nothing to do with lining up the tubes or convergence. You actually have to loosen the 3/16th;s cap screws (Allen) and pivot the Blue and Red tubes. Check out my set-up guide for this
| TClinton wrote: | I also had what appears to me to be a substantial leak of fluid from 1 or more of my tubes. I found this out when I went to remove the HVPS and LVPS for repair (the LVPS was fine). I found about 2 oz. or so of fluid on the bottom forward section belly pan when I removed it. My projector is ceiling mounted. This doesn't seem good???
Tony Clinton  | this is bad but thank goodness it's on the ceiling. If the machine was on the floor and that stuff had leaked back into the power supply's and motherboard it can trash the entire machine. What really needs to happen here is all 3 tubes removed, the rubber bellows replaced, and re-filled with Glycol. This is one of the things that any old MArqueee needs. Check out this thread for details.
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=16267.html
Last edited by draganm on Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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TClinton
Joined: 22 May 2009 Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks very much for the reply. I would greatly appreciate an email of your 7 page setup guide. I will read all of the other stuff you mentioned. Thanks for helping!!! Regards, Tony
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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e-mail sent, make sure your spam filter didn't block it.
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TClinton
Joined: 22 May 2009 Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:26 am Post subject: Electrohome Marquee Set-up |
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Dragan, thanks again for sending me the set-up guide. I followed it as best I could but I have several issues still. I would appreciate any advice you can offer.
1. My initial distance from the Green tube to the top of the screen was 118". I moved the projector forward about 4" as this was the limit of my current mount. (I could redo this mount but it would require unbolting the rails I have on the ceiling and moving them forward 15") My screen is 80" Wide so I should be at either 100.82" or 105.4" depending on my lenses. I cannot tell what kind of lenses I have. The only identification I can find on them is a simple inspection sticker on the Black anodized aluminum body. How can I identify which tubes I have?
2. In the Guided Mechanical Set-up when I get to screen 5 it says to turn the Contrast down to 10 or below and look into the Red tube to center the raster on the face of the tube using the arrows on the remote. On my display the background behind where the instructions are shows ONLY the edges of the Red crosshatch pattern. Where the words are the crosshatch pattern is blanked out. If it were visible I would be able to line it up on my SCREEN because I have marked a Center Mark on tape in the center of my screen. The arrows don't appear to change where the crosshatch is on the face of the tube when I look into it. Shouldn't it display the entire crosshatch pattern so I could line it up in the exact center of my screen? I am obviously confused by what they are asking me to do.
3. My processor is a Lumagen HDP. If I turn on its internal test pattern the second one has a Center crosshatch and it exactly hits the center crosshatch I marked on my screen. However, when I put my projectors Green Crosshatch pattern up it is not centered and is up and right about 3 inches or so. Shouldn't the projectors Green crosshatch CENTER exactly match the crosshatch from the Lumagen CENTER?
I am enjoying learning how my equipment works but am still confused and am not getting the performance that it is capable of. Thanks for any help you can offer. Regards, Tony Clinton
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CRT_Ben
Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1684 Location: Northern Virginia
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 1:40 am Post subject: |
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Hey Tony! Welcome to the forum
It sounds like Dragan's taking good care of you but I just wanted to drop a quick line, I would remove your email and cell phone from the first post. The forum is public and can (will) be crawled by search engines, so unless you want it to be very public info I would go ahead and delete it
Ben
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TClinton
Joined: 22 May 2009 Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:24 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice Ben. Dragan is being very helpful!!! Regards, Tony
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:03 am Post subject: Re: Electrohome Marquee Set-up |
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| TClinton wrote: | | Dragan, thanks again for sending me the set-up guide. I followed it as best I could but I have several issues still. I would appreciate any advice you can offer. | nice talking to you today, Ill send some pics of those connectors soon. Kids lost my Green finger nail polish I mark connectors with for easy reference
| TClinton wrote: | | 2. In the Guided Mechanical Set-up when I get to screen 5 it says to turn the Contrast down to 10 or below and look into the Red tube to center the raster on the face of the tube using the arrows on the remote. On my display the background behind where the instructions are shows ONLY the edges of the Red crosshatch pattern. Where the words are the crosshatch pattern is blanked out. If it were visible I would be able to line it up on my SCREEN because I have marked a Center Mark on tape in the center of my screen. The arrows don't appear to change where the crosshatch is on the face of the tube when I look into it. Shouldn't it display the entire crosshatch pattern so I could line it up in the exact center of my screen? I am obviously confused by what they are asking me to do. | forget about the screen at this point. Your simply trying to center the cross-hatch pattern to the tube. You only need to see the sides of the grid and make sure they're all equal distance from the sides of the tube face, That's it. the part when you line up on the screen requires actually loosening the bolts on r + B tube and pivoting them, the entire tube, to line up Blue and Red grids to Green gird pattern
| TClinton wrote: | | 3. My processor is a Lumagen HDP. If I turn on its internal test pattern the second one has a Center crosshatch and it exactly hits the center crosshatch I marked on my screen. However, when I put my projectors Green Crosshatch pattern up it is not centered and is up and right about 3 inches or so. Shouldn't the projectors Green crosshatch CENTER exactly match the crosshatch from the Lumagen CENTER? | you need to center the PJ's internal test pattern to the screen, this is called the Raster. Anything the Lumagen puts out can me moved around with Phase under the PIC menu. Phase simply centers active video within the Raster, it doesn't move the raster. So to summarize, center raster on all 3 tube faces, center all 3 tube faces (with raster) to screen, center active video within raster. Piece of cake right do a final convergence using Interpolated fiorst time around. Active video must be present at correct resolution (your preference) for Convergence to be effective.
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dturco
Joined: 06 Feb 2009 Posts: 3778 Location: Eastern Shore Maryland
TV/Projector: Runco DLP VX-3000i Marquee 9500 parts doner
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:29 am Post subject: Re: Electrohome Marquee Set-up |
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| draganm wrote: | | TClinton wrote: | | Dragan, thanks again for sending me the set-up guide. I followed it as best I could but I have several issues still. I would appreciate any advice you can offer. | nice talking to you today, Ill send some pics of those connectors soon. Kids lost my Green finger nail polish I mark connectors with for easy reference
| TClinton wrote: | | 2. In the Guided Mechanical Set-up when I get to screen 5 it says to turn the Contrast down to 10 or below and look into the Red tube to center the raster on the face of the tube using the arrows on the remote. On my display the background behind where the instructions are shows ONLY the edges of the Red crosshatch pattern. Where the words are the crosshatch pattern is blanked out. If it were visible I would be able to line it up on my SCREEN because I have marked a Center Mark on tape in the center of my screen. The arrows don't appear to change where the crosshatch is on the face of the tube when I look into it. Shouldn't it display the entire crosshatch pattern so I could line it up in the exact center of my screen? I am obviously confused by what they are asking me to do. | forget about the screen at this point. Your simply trying to center the cross-hatch pattern to the tube. You only need to see the sides of the grid and make sure they're all equal distance from the sides of the tube face, That's it. the part when you line up on the screen requires actually loosening the bolts on r + B tube and pivoting them, the entire tube, to line up Blue and Red grids to Green gird pattern
| TClinton wrote: | | 3. My processor is a Lumagen HDP. If I turn on its internal test pattern the second one has a Center crosshatch and it exactly hits the center crosshatch I marked on my screen. However, when I put my projectors Green Crosshatch pattern up it is not centered and is up and right about 3 inches or so. Shouldn't the projectors Green crosshatch CENTER exactly match the crosshatch from the Lumagen CENTER? | you need to center the PJ's internal test pattern to the screen, this is called the Raster. Anything the Lumagen puts out can me moved around with Phase under the PIC menu. Phase simply centers active video within the Raster, it doesn't move the raster. So to summarize, center raster on all 3 tube faces, center all 3 tube faces (with raster) to screen, center active video within raster. Piece of cake right do a final convergence using Interpolated fiorst time around. Active video must be present at correct resolution (your preference) for Convergence to be effective. |
Deja vu.
I would try to help but everyone would warn you not to listen to me.
I have the same thing with my 9500 that damn black square is in the way all the time. But like Dragan said just look at the edges, the remote does move the grid it is just hard to see on the tube face.
To verify this leave the contrast at 50 look at the screen at watch the grid move by the remote commands. Then lower the contrast again and look into the tube to move the grid more accurately
_________________ Firefly rules. Can't stop the signal.
http://www.hulu.com/firefly
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TClinton
Joined: 22 May 2009 Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 11:03 pm Post subject: |
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Dragan, I finally found a sticker on the aluminum body of the Green tube that lists a part number. It looks like this:
05-000254-04P 03-007064-04P
9500 P43 Green 97/11 006
Projector Model #38-P13092-94 Serial #750820010 I still cannot find any identifying numbers on the black lense bodies. Their is only a small inspection sticker that says Total Quality passed 22-29. Any ideas what lenses I have or actual PJ model?
Also, I checked the H number under the Size and mine is now 57... therefore, it looks like I need to move the PJ forward about 10-15" to utilize more of the raster. I just got back today and have another trip tomorrow. I will be able to work on the PJ on Wed. and Thur.
Hope you are having a good weekend!!
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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well I wish I had some good news but I don't | TClinton wrote: | | Dragan, I finally found a sticker on the aluminum body of the Green tube that lists a part number. It looks like this: 9500 P43 Green 97/11 006 | it looks like the green tube was replaced at some time with a P43 fast Phosphor green. Not really ideal for HT
| TClinton wrote: | | Projector Model #38-P13092-94 Serial #750820010 I still cannot find any identifying numbers on the black lense bodies. Their is only a small inspection sticker that says Total Quality passed 22-29. Any ideas what lenses I have or actual PJ model? | Marquee 9000 with HD10L lenses. There's a chance the HD10L lenses on this machine might have been swapped out to ones designed for normal size screens. You will know if you can get the focus dialed in on your screen, if not then they're HD10L.
| Quote: | Re: Marquee 9000 Throw Distance and Lens Information
The following is an explanation of the differences between three Marquee 9000 lenses;
DELTA HD-10L HD-10GT17 HD-10GT26
All three lenses can be easily changed without having to disturb the liquid chamber between the CRT face and the lens. The main difference between the three lenses lies in their abilities to focus at various throw distances and hence they have different resolution performance at different screen sizes. In the following formulas provided, the throw distance (TD) is defined by Electrohome as the distance from the centre of the projected screen image to the centre of the green front lens element on the projector. The width (W) refers to the width of the projected data or video image (which matches the screen width).
DELTA HD-10L (standard on Marquee 9000 model number 38-P13092-94)
This lens has been designed to give optimum performance with smaller screen sizes. It provides the best performance between the three lenses on screen sizes from 5’ (1524mm) to 9’ (2743mm) measured diagonally (4:3 aspect ratio).
Please note that the minimum specified screen size for the Marquee 9000 is 8’ (2438mm) diagonal and the maximum specified screen size is 25’(7620mm) diagonal.
For this lens and model of projector use:
TD = 1.54*W + 3.3” (TD, W in inches)
TD = 1.54*W + 84.9mm (TD, W in mm)
minimum maximum
W (width) 47.1” (1196mm) 240” (6096mm)
TD (throw distance) 76.0” (1930mm) 372.9” (9472mm) |
| TClinton wrote: | Also, I checked the H number under the Size and mine is now 57... therefore, it looks like I need to move the PJ forward about 10-15" to utilize more of the raster. I just got back today and have another trip tomorrow. I will be able to work on the PJ on Wed. and Thur.
Hope you are having a good weekend!! | it's been OK if you like Tornadoes and air raid sirens.
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robertmejia
Joined: 24 Nov 2008 Posts: 18 Location: Philadelphia PA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:12 am Post subject: |
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Hey Tony,
I also had a glycol leak. I removed the crt's and shipped them to VDC Display Systems in Cape Canaveral FL. They replaced the bellows and glycol on my crt's. They did a very nice job. You might consider addressing the glycol leak.
Here is the link.
http://www.vdcdisplaysystems.com/
_________________ Robert Mejia
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:39 am Post subject: |
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Tony, I just got the Bellows for the Marquee . I have 100 bran new bellows. I am selling them for $ 150 For Three plus 5 bucks for paypal fees then shipping cost which would be about 5 more bucks. VDC charges about 450 per tube. If you dont feel comfortable doing them there is a CRT Tech in Georgia I think... Terry He is a member here or I could do it for you as well for a much smaller fee, about the same price for all three tubes from VDC. Let me know, but the leak should be fixed. and these New bellows have a much better vapor transmission than the old VDC 99% silicon ones.
Athanasios
_________________ Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | | VDC charges about 450 per tube. Athanasios | that's not a good deal and based on the marquee's reputation for leaks who knows what kind of formula they're using. IT's supposed to be better than the old ones but I bet it's nowhere near as good as the EPDM that Apple rubber engineered for this application.
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