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BD808s: Major upgrade - if I can get it to work
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: BD808s: Major upgrade - if I can get it to work

Hello everybody.
I just bought a Barco data 808s.

The tubes are not perfect, but considering I only paid the equivalent of US $400 I guess I cannot complain.
I have to put the rasters outside the existing wear-pattern but luckily it seems like the picture is not really affected.



Here comes the problem.

I just cannot seem to get a usable picture out of my media-player. At first i thought the problem had to
be my scaler so i disconnected it and ran the signal straight into the projector. This did not solve the problem. In fact the picture got slightly worse.

This is 576i, no problem there, everything looks peachy.



This is 1080i@60, The picture itself is looking good, just very very dark. (And yes, I did check contrast / brightness).



This is 1080p@60, Brightness is actually correct (cameras fault). Looks like someone took a swing at the picture with an axe. Everything between the distortions looks good.



Any ideas??


kindly bofr
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:50 pm    Post subject:

Try SCART mode on.

How do you have it hooked up?

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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 7:57 pm    Post subject:

Whoops. forgot to mention that.

The player is a PopcornHour a100.

Image is output using component (y + ypr + ypb).

With my old projector (1271) this signal went into my scaler that did pretty much nothing at all except give me
an rgbhv-signal instead.

I've tried to run it now using both the scaler (giving me a rgbhv signal on port 5) and component straight into the
projector (port 5, source 6).

Both configurations give the same result.

SCART-mode will not work, that is simply an option for getting the player to put out a rgb signal that normal old-fashioned tv's can understand.

/bofr
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r.bauer



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 8:55 pm    Post subject:

The component input of the 808s accepts only component at 15khz. Just feed the projector RGBHV and it will be happy.
If the picture stays dark, try to adjust the H-phase. It is a source related problem.
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:54 pm    Post subject:

This just keep getting weirder.

Put the scaler back in.

Same problem as before. Thought "hey maybe I put H-sync and V-sync in the wrong way".
Disconnected the sync cables and was about to put them in again the other way around. Looked at
the screen and realized that the image was still there.

According to the manual for the scaler (Extron dvs 406) everything is output as rgbhv as long as i dont change the output format, the format is indeed set to rgbhv (changing to any of the other options make no difference).

The projector claims the mode is something like 30khz/60somethingHz.

To summarize.
Using port 5.
Input select 5.
Getting rgbhv from scaler.

H & V-sync not connected.
Picture still there.

What the ... is going on here??

Edit: Oh and i forgot one thing. Tried adjusting H-Phase, did nothing for the brighness, did move the picture.

/bofr
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:05 pm    Post subject:

Solved.

Disconnected the signal cable and examined it under a bright light.

Apparently my cat had managed to slice off the V-sync lead....

I now get a very nice looking desktop at 1080p60, scanlines plainly visible up to right before
my chair.

/bofr
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bbfarmht



Joined: 27 May 2006
Posts: 1273
Location: Where the Mississippi runs east to west!!

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:34 pm    Post subject:

bofr wrote:
Solved.

Disconnected the signal cable and examined it under a bright light.

Apparently my cat had managed to slice off the V-sync lead....

I now get a very nice looking desktop at 1080p60, scanlines plainly visible up to right before
my chair.

/bofr


When the cat is sabotaging the theater its time to get rid of it.

Nice to hear that you figured it out. How many hours are on the projector?

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"Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both"

Benjamin Franklin
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Elaine Benes



Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 1416


Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 4:38 pm    Post subject:

bbfarmht wrote:

When the cat is sabotaging the theater its time to get rid of it.

Nice to hear that you figured it out. How many hours are on the projector?


Why would you get rid of the theater just because the cat doesn't like it ???
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 5:19 pm    Post subject:

bbfarmht wrote:


When the cat is sabotaging the theater its time to get rid of it.

Nice to hear that you figured it out. How many hours are on the projector?



About 5600h.
Strange really, my old 1271 had about the same amount of hours but pristine tubefaces yet I could not get it
to focus worth squat.

This however have not so-nice-looking tube faces. But the picture is not really that affected and I got a very sharp image after only a few minutes fiddling with the focus.

Guess thats the major difference between EM and ES sets.
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:05 pm    Post subject:

Yep, that's ES vs. EM in a nutshell
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 7:12 pm    Post subject:

bofr wrote:


Apparently my cat had managed to slice off the V-sync lead....



I just had this happen in an installation out of town. An A/V company brought me a Barco 1209s and Faroudja scaler, saying there was no picture. Everything ran fine here, save for the tube wear, so I put in new tubes. Went to install the unit again, got no picture on site, but the internal menus were fine.

This system was installed in a slide out Middle Atlantic rack, and the last time someone slid the rack out, they pinched the H sync wire under the rack, ripping it in half. Now, this a/v company was from way out of town as well, so you can imagine the labor costs involved, only to have the problem remain within the rack itself the whole time. Shocked
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 8:15 pm    Post subject:

Hmm.
I need to almost max out the bow-controls for top, bottom and sides...
Resetting the projector to default makes the image squeze together in the middle, both vertically and horizontally.

Made for spherical screen??

Seems a bit odd thought since the lenses are normal HD8b.

Is there any way to put the controlls back to normal?
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:11 pm    Post subject:

Don't usually like to bump my own thread like this but this is beginning to bug me a lot.

Here is a picture of the problem:



This makes it a bit difficult to get the geometry properly setup.

Any ideas?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:41 pm    Post subject:

That looks normal to me. The pic above shows the convergence controls at 50%. That's the picture you should get there.
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 4:51 pm    Post subject:

Really?? I pretty much have to max out the bow controls to get the picture close to a rectangle.
This is very fiddly since i have to go "bow -> keystone -> seagull" repeat ad nauseum...
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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:12 pm    Post subject:

Hmm, you shouldn't be using seagull with any kind of normal physical setup. I haven't found an instance where it helps the image overall... something is odd.
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bofr



Joined: 03 Feb 2008
Posts: 28


Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:22 pm    Post subject:

Well I cannot get the horizontall lines to become straight without using seagull correction.

Merely using the bow controls I get a picture where the centre of the line look ok but the last 20% on each side doesnt get corrected as much as the rest.

Look at the picture above. Starting from that (everything at centre position) I adjust the bow but the "magnitude" of the adjustment is significantly less at the edges. Which I then correct using the seagull-adjustment. Then go back and forth many times and eventually ending up with a sort-of straight line.

Nothing i can't live with but the convergence at the far edges get a bit wonky.
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km987654



Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2874
Location: Australia

TV/Projector: Barco BG809s

Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:14 am    Post subject:

I suppose you are using an input source to setup the geometry and then covergence. Have you tried different source resolutions. Its certainly been my experience that the initial shape of the geometry changes with different input resolutions. If you are using a scaler or HTPC this is easy to change.
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HighDefDude



Joined: 02 May 2008
Posts: 20
Location: Netherlands

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:46 am    Post subject:

bofr wrote:
Don't usually like to bump my own thread like this but this is beginning to bug me a lot.

Here is a picture of the problem:



This makes it a bit difficult to get the geometry properly setup.

Any ideas?


Well thats about exactly what I get after resetting all memory blocks of my Data800 !!
I matched the geometry of red and blue to green (as good as possible..), then I used green geometry to
bring the screen in a more acceptable form (16:9) did some convergencing.. All went well.. I don't even have that irritating "barco line of coincidence" Which means that I didn't use extreme convergence settings.

So.. in short: You should be able to setup a nice picture, even when a reset-image looks like that..


All the best,

HDD.
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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:35 pm    Post subject:

That's a totally normal set-to-midposition screen. If you:

1) Squish vertical to fit the screen
2) Expand horizontal to fit the screen
3) Adjust side keystone so the 'bow' is even
4) Adjust side bow

...you're still using max bow?

Can you post shots of the geometry as you go through each step there?

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