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More questions about xg's

 
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scir16v



Joined: 02 Jan 2009
Posts: 113
Location: St. Louis

Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 7:44 pm    Post subject: More questions about xg's

Ok, so it's been awhile since I've been able to tweak or even turn on the xg1350 hanging on the ceiling. I have a few questions.

First of all, what are some good powerstrip timings to run a computer resolution of 1920x1080?

Next, I don't have any type of calibration tool other than my sharp eyes. I have been adjusting the Kelvin settings on this thing trying to do as good of grayscale as I can see. I've noticed that the green smears and bleeds off to the right on almost any setting of gain, bright bias, black bias. Any suggestions?

Next, When I do get a decent look to it as far as rich color and detail, I notice what seems to look as if I look at a digital projector image. What I mean is that I can see the raster projected as well. Not just the picture on the raster. I know I'll probably have to take a picture to show you what I mean. But it is also only to one have of the screen. If I turn down the settings on the colors, it goes away, but so does any detail in darker areas.

Ideas? or do really need to get a scope to get this to a reference level before I can tweak any of those settings?
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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 2:35 am    Post subject:

1. Try a search for "powerstrip" here.

2. Green needs astig done.

3. Turn the brightness down (Pic Func). If bits of the raster are still showing, then it needs a full mech white balance...not for the faint hearted.
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scir16v



Joined: 02 Jan 2009
Posts: 113
Location: St. Louis

Posted: Thu May 28, 2009 1:53 pm    Post subject:

Thank you for your response.

I've gotten the green to not smear. I had to turn the contrast down into the 20's. But now the problem I run to is the black level of the blue and red tubes. I guess you might call it the G2 settings. I haven't turned pots and won't until I get a scope, this is just bias and gain levels.

What is a full mech white balance? Would that be scoping and going through the service manual?
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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 2:59 am    Post subject:

You still need to do astig on green.

You haven't fixed it.



And yes, a full mech white balance is the service manual process with a scope, and correct test patterns, and interpreting them correctly. It's not easy.
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scir16v



Joined: 02 Jan 2009
Posts: 113
Location: St. Louis

Posted: Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:58 pm    Post subject:

I have adjusted astig on the green to where the dots don't move between under and over focused. That was with cpc magnets and eletronic adjustments. I had to do adjustments with the cpc magnets because the factory glue was broken and clear caulk in it's place. The blue and red hadn't been touched.

Gathering what you've said about white balance, I probably need to do it in order to get the picture perfect or close to it.
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Elaine Benes



Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 1416


Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:29 am    Post subject:

Do the JRobbo service level electronic white balance first before you attempt a full mech white...

http://www.jrobbo.com/NEC/NECXGG2Calibration.htm
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scir16v



Joined: 02 Jan 2009
Posts: 113
Location: St. Louis

Posted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:25 am    Post subject:

Ok, does anybody have a scope handy to borrow for a bit? No matter what I do, anything above 2o something contrast, the green bleeds off to the right. The red and the blue have a raster that is lit up in dark scenes, the green doesn't show because it's hardly driven. I can't get that adjusted to look good no matter what I do.

I'm running off of a htpc set to 1920x1080i @96hz

I did some searching around here and came across something that looks like the raster problem I see in all the tubes really.

https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=13109.html

That looks like some off the problem I'm having.
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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 4:03 am    Post subject:

Yes, it sounds like you do need to break out the scope.

Your bleed to the right on green may be streaking caused by black level issues, rather than astig. Without any PHOTOS we are just guessing.

You'll need the correct test patterns. From memory crossed stepped ramps and a checkerboard.
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scir16v



Joined: 02 Jan 2009
Posts: 113
Location: St. Louis

Posted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:30 pm    Post subject:

Has anybody translated the engrish service manual for the procedure of adjusting the pots?
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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:05 am    Post subject:

Curt did one for the Xtra.

On AVS, maybe in the archives.


I found it once by searching for "Centurion", as I made a Monty Python reference in the thread.
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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:14 pm    Post subject:

The last time Mark gave the "Centurion" reference, GodTM found it here. Some additional comments & suggestions by Curt in that first thread too.
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Mark_A_W



Joined: 15 Mar 2006
Posts: 3068
Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia

Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 8:10 am    Post subject:

Here

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598469&highlight=Centurion
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