CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[menec]

Ok, I'm pretty desperate.
I wrote down the values of contrast and brightness to check if they stay the same and powered down the PJ. After returning from the video store I tried to fire up the 8500 again and it seems that it is dead now!
The unit won't power on anymore! The only thing it does is producing a high pitch noise which gets slowly higher and all the red LEDs on the CLM are blinking. No lights from the tubes, no picture and the only way to power off the PJ is to pull the plug. No reaction to the remote
What's going on here?!

[draganm]

[Nashou66]

[menec]

Ok, I didn't have much time today so I quickly tried to fix the problem with DeOxit and I also checked the connection of the chips and the solder joints. No luck so far. But I'll have a closer look at the CLM board during this week when I have more time for testing.
Thanks for your help so far!

PS: Maybe it's important to note that the red lights on the CLM do not actually blink in sync but go from left to right.

[Tim in Phoenix]

[WayneB]

[draganm]

I'm not really an expert on the subject but I know that rolling Brown outs are actually the worst. The power conditioner you have now should alleviate most of that power from surging through your set. To eliminate it completely you would need a UPS (Uninterruptible power supply ) which is a battery back-up but I'm betting one capable of driving the Marquee would be big and expensive.

[WayneB]

Yes, a UPS would work for the times when we are watching something (projector is powered on). I have an APC UPS for my computers that provides up to 600 watts. It was about $450. But it sends a signal to the computer to shut itself down gracefully. If connected to a projector, it would only delay the dropping of power by about 5-10 minutes. Lots of time if you are watching something to manually shut down the projector. No benefit if you are away from the projector and it is on.

Still, I have lost a Faroudja DVP-2200 and my Runco 980 Ultra to power failures this winter, so it is probably worth it.
Thanks for the input...

[draganm]

maybe what you really need is an emergency back-up generator for the whole house. I know the ones at Hospitals are driven by a Turbine engine and cost a million dollars. Does anyone make an affordable one for home use?

[Nashou66]

Yep the Guardian line of NG powered generators work great and I think Home depot has them. in the few $K area cost wise.

Athanasios

[draganm]

[menec]

Hello,

My unit is still not working Here is what I tried:

- Removed the daughter boards and cleaned all the connection pins
- Visually checked all the solder joints
- Removed all the socketed chips on the CLM and the daughter boards and cleaned them thoroughly.
- Replaced the two blue capacitors on the deflection processor board
- Visually checked the capacitors on the vertical deflection board (is that the one that drives the coils? ) but none is leaking

What I noticed:
- I tried to power up the unit without the stigmator daughter board in place. According to this page this should work, shouldn't it? Result was, that the unit did not even start to flash the error LEDs and switched itself off after about two seconds.

- The squealing noise (which gets higher and higher) comes from the vertical output board on the rear heat sink. The source of the noise seems to be in the lower part where all the capacitors are mounted

- I counted 17 tantalum (are those the little squarish, yellow guys all over the clm?) capacitors but I did not replace any of them

Is there anything else I can try or should I start replacing the caps?

[menec]

Ok, I got a replacement CLM for the Marquee and with this board the PJ powers up again! Next step was swapping the deflection processor board. And with the old DPB the new CLM did not work anymore. So the problem seems to be a defect in the DPB.
I tried swapping the U7 chip and it's working.
So the problem seems to be some where else on the board.
Any ideas?

[menec]

More and more problems are coming up
With the replacement CLM the PJ powers up fine, but I'm not able to change the Top/Bottom Key and Pin adjustments anymore (the same settings that were not saved correctly before the complete power-up failure). The sliders move but nothing happens on the screen.

Do you think this behavior is caused by the HDM (precisely by bad caps on the HDM)? Or which board is responsible for the Key and Pin adjustments?

[Nashou66]

The Key and Pin I think are on the VDM and CVA boards If I remember Correctly. Check the Ribbon cables that connect those boards tot he mother board, Also make sure they do not Pinch or are Cut from closing the back heat sink.

Athanasios

[menec]

Ok, I checked the ribbon cables and they seem to be perfectly fine (not pinched or cut).

After that I exchanged all three boards on the rear heat sink but nothing changed.

Those are the settings that can't be adjusted anymore (neither with the old boards nor with the replacement boards):

-Vertical Skew
-Horizontal/Vertical Bow
-Top/Bottom Key and Pin

Any idea what could be wrong here?

[menec]

Hi,

I could fix the problem not being able to adjust the above mentioned settings! The culprit was the little cable connecting two pins on the Deflection Processor Board. The replacement DPB is completely identical to the non-working original board, except this cable. So I put the cable in place and am able to adjust all the settings again!



Next step will be replacing the yellow caps on the broken DPB to see if this fixes the blinking LEDs on the CLM. Hopefully with the new DPB also the settings are reapplied after powering down the unit (to finally fix the problem I started with )



I'll keep you informed. Thanks for all the help so far!

[Nashou66]

I wonder if it the back plane board? that board holds the PJ Info and some other things. I am not sure if ti works in conjunction with the CLM but it might. I need to investigate this more of maybe Tim At E-tech might have more info or TSE.

Athanasios

[menec]

Ok, just to make sure I got this right: You say the problem with the ignored geometry settings could be related to the backplane? Hmm that's interesting.
The only board I did not swap in this PJ (besides the backplane) is the HDM, simply because I don't have a spare one. I was about to order new caps and try if recapping this board might help to fix it.
But if the backplane really could be the culprit this would cause a LOT of work to fix...


To sum it up: The PJ is in a working condition again, except that the problem with the ignored geometry settings I started with (from my very first post in this thread) is still present.

[Nashou66]

Which CLM and DPB combo are you using now? is it the original CLM with the NEW DPB? I am not sure about the back plane thing but you never know, i doubt it though it was just me thinking out load.

if you did not change the HDM it could be that. I have to read the service manual to see what areas to look at on the hDM but if you still have control and the grids are moving then it should save, i say it could be a bad memory chip, on some CLM's(newer ones) there are leds that light up as writing is going on to the CLM, these are very small and on the CLM you can see then lighting up if you look into the slots near the CLM. this lets you know there is communication between the CPU and the memory I believe. I have to look again to see what color the LED's should illuminate for correct communication, now I am not sure all CLM's have this.

Athanasios