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How hot is too HOT?
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wallace123456



Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 2236
Location: Northwest VA area

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 1:48 am    Post subject: How hot is too HOT?

A while back, I noticed the bottom plate on my nec 6pg xtra was like really hot. Well, I used a meat temperature gauge and measured the plate to be about 131 degrees.

Is this too hot? Seems like it is to me, but... Confused

wallace

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
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Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:02 am    Post subject:

Yes, I'd say that's too hot. It means the hot components inside are a lot hotter than that. Internal temps of 120F or less are better. You should consider improving your ventilation. Is it ceiling-mounted? You could do the "plenum extraction" technique.
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jask



Joined: 17 Mar 2006
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Location: kamloops BC

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:20 am    Post subject:

way too hot! that will kill electronics. better quality caps are rated to 110 degrees in these old units and the cheap ones are 85 degree.
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wallace123456



Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:21 am    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:
Yes, I'd say that's too hot. It means the hot components inside are a lot hotter than that. Internal temps of 120F or less are better. You should consider improving your ventilation. Is it ceiling-mounted? You could do the "plenum extraction" technique.


I think so too, but then I am not sure what the normal operating temp should be. I know the plate is also used as a heat-sink, but still am not sure about "what is normal".

It is ceiling mounted and there is about 6 inches between the plate (bottom of pj) and the ceiling.

wallace




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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:37 am    Post subject:

Make sure the bottom is clean. The whole bottom is one big heat sink. Most of the temerature is coming from the STK chips fastened to the base. Make sure the inside is clean and not loaded with dust. I used to have a PG Plus. I had found some large heat sink material and just set it on the base over the STK's with heat transfer grease between. It helped alot.
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:13 am    Post subject:

jask wrote:
way too hot! that will kill electronics. better quality caps are rated to 110 degrees in these old units and the cheap ones are 85 degree.
ummm, thats 110 celsius = 230 franheit Wink
Still 130F is way too fricking hot, STK chips are Evil Thumbs Down
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wallace123456



Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 2236
Location: Northwest VA area

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:41 am    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
jask wrote:
way too hot! that will kill electronics. better quality caps are rated to 110 degrees in these old units and the cheap ones are 85 degree.
ummm, thats 110 celsius = 230 franheit Wink
Still 130F is way too fricking hot, STK chips are Evil Thumbs Down


Aaahhhh!!! The stk chips are right under where it is the hottest. The other side of the plate is MUCH cooler! So, that makes perfect sense.

Now, how can I cool the chips? Is it worth it to pull the focus board and replace the heat-sink grease between the chips and the mounting plate? Or, could there be something else causing them (chips) to overwork?

stefuel wrote:
Make sure the bottom is clean. The whole bottom is one big heat sink. Most of the temerature is coming from the STK chips fastened to the base. Make sure the inside is clean and not loaded with dust. I used to have a PG Plus. I had found some large heat sink material and just set it on the base over the STK's with heat transfer grease between. It helped alot.


Chip,
Did you set the heat sinks on the bottom plate or on the stk chips themselves?

wallace

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Heywood Jablome



Joined: 12 Mar 2006
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:55 am    Post subject:

My answer to the OP's question posed: Any of Emdawgz' avatars Wink

I'm with Chip on the heatsink idea... I salvaged two large sinks from an RPTV that went to scrap, probably 2.5" x 6", aluminum finned. I had to spot-drill clearance holes where the fasteners came thru the base plate and then simply adhered the sinks to the outside of the plate with heatsink grease.

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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:32 pm    Post subject:

This was one of the main reasons that RPTV manufactures had a bulletin to upgrade the STK's to a different chip. The originals couldn't handle the current and would over heat. The upgrades had a higher current rating and would run cooler.

Also your convergence adjustments need to be as close to neutral as possible. If a basic adjustment is off then a later adjustment has to be more corrective and will cause the chip to work harder and run hotter.
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:07 pm    Post subject:

Asking "How hot is too hot?" can't be answered. It's not black and white. Keep it as cool as possible and it'll last longer and run a lot more stable.

The cooler you run it, the longer it'll last. Capacitors rated to 110F will still last longer if you run then at 80F instead of 100F. Just because they're rated 110F doesn't mean that you should run them that high.

I see a lot of people do fan mods and other things and then say that their temp is only up X number of degrees and that it's "still within spec". Sure, it's within spec, but you're running it in to the ground faster. Just because you run it for a few days at the hotter temperature and nothing happened doesn't mean that you aren't killing it faster - you are!

Kal

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
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Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:08 pm    Post subject:

Mounting a heatsink to the outside of the baseplate, where it's hottest, is a good idea -- as others have said, the PGs use the baseplate as a heatsink for the STKs and you can improve the heat-dissipation effectiveness by adding a bunch of fins.

Improving airflow through the chassis is a good idea too, which is what the plenum extractor is for. If a PG is like an XG, there are two side fans that you might want to reverse. (They blow out by default, which works OK for table mounting, but for ceiling-mount with extraction, they blow the wrong direction.)

See e.g. http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=529823 for some pix of a plenum extraction system. He just taped an aluminum lasagna pan Smile to the baseplate, and tape an extraction duct to the pan. The pan just lets the duct suck air out of a larger area -- covering all/most of the holes in the baseplate.

From your pic it looks like you don't have any kind of venting or ducting to remove hot air. True? If so, how hot does it get at the ceiling when the projector runs for a while? When I first installed my XG, without any ducting, the room heated up really fast. On "opening night" I had 8 people in the theater (equivalent to another 800W heater), and before we even finished the movie, the XG overheated and shut down. It was WAY hot up at the ceiling, and the baseplate/heatsink was almost too hot to touch. Adding a duct to remove hot air from the room made a BIG difference, and sucking the hot air out of the XG chassis improved it even more.
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:53 pm    Post subject:

A STK392-110 has a maximum operating temp of 125C or 257F.

Now ask me if I believe that....... Laughing



Or maybe it just means that's the temp when it explodes....... Shocked
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jask



Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 10187
Location: kamloops BC

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:54 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
jask wrote:
way too hot! that will kill electronics. better quality caps are rated to 110 degrees in these old units and the cheap ones are 85 degree.
ummm, thats 110 celsius = 230 franheit Wink
Still 130F is way too fricking hot, STK chips are Evil Thumbs Down


DOH!!! Rolling Eyes

when are you guys going to join the rest of the world? Wink
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 3:59 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
A STK392-110 has a maximum operating temp of 125C or 257F.

Now ask me if I believe that....... Laughing
Or maybe it just means that's the temp when it explodes....... Shocked
the temp. rating in and of itself is meaningless. the FULL spec is xxxx hours at 125c. Usually that hours number is low, like 5000 hours at 125C. the cooler you run it the longer it wil llast. Like if you drop the temp. by half to 62C the life span will usually qaudruple to 20K hours or more.
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:00 pm    Post subject:

C'mon Jask, you should be bi-lingual. Metric and American.
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:08 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
macgyver655 wrote:
A STK392-110 has a maximum operating temp of 125C or 257F.

Now ask me if I believe that....... Laughing
Or maybe it just means that's the temp when it explodes....... Shocked
the temp. rating in and of itself is meaningless. the FULL spec is xxxx hours at 125c. Usually that hours number is low, like 5000 hours at 125C. the cooler you run it the longer it wil llast. Like if you drop the temp. by half to 62C the life span will usually qaudruple to 20K hours or more.




I'd like to see that spec sheet......
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:26 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
draganm wrote:
macgyver655 wrote:
A STK392-110 has a maximum operating temp of 125C or 257F.

Now ask me if I believe that....... Laughing
Or maybe it just means that's the temp when it explodes....... Shocked
the temp. rating in and of itself is meaningless. the FULL spec is xxxx hours at 125c. Usually that hours number is low, like 5000 hours at 125C. the cooler you run it the longer it wil llast. Like if you drop the temp. by half to 62C the life span will usually qaudruple to 20K hours or more.




I'd like to see that spec sheet......



Let me also emphasize that I dont disagree with this, but I've never seen a spec sheet with info like that....
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:38 pm    Post subject:

they are usually spec'd hour wise for capacitors, that data sheet does not say hours of use at that temp, i guess it is just assumed?

If you need replacing them i guess most use the STK392-180 as a newer chip replacement, it has a higher wattage from 11 to 18. In mitsu CRT sets it works fine as a replacement.

Athanasios

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stefuel



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
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Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 9:55 pm    Post subject:

The only problem I ever found with the original STK392-140 was that they ran so hot that the pins would unsolder inside the chip. They usually fall out of the chip when you are replacing them. A quick test if you think you are having a problem is to press lightly on each pin with a pencil eraser while it's running and look for changes on screen. Also be aware that there was a aftermarket version of these chips that $ucked big time. The only thing they were good for was taking them to a pond and see how many skips you could get from them before they sank Rolling Eyes
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Brian Hampton



Joined: 22 Apr 2006
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Posted: Sat May 09, 2009 11:11 am    Post subject:

Grrr,....

I'm scrolling down waiting for the reply button to show up when I see someone beat me to it...

Quote "My answer to the OP's question posed: Any of Emdawgz' avatars "

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