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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | I have the manual so let me know if you need it. Plus, if you do get it, dont go changing anything in there until you post here. I have lots of info on that chassis for repairs of different problems and you dont always replace with the same value part. Good luck.......  |
So now that I have it, I wanted to re-touch on this. It definitely has the 'constant flashing green light" issue, which from what I've found is typically resolved by replacing the 7 large capacitors on the DM Module's power board (hope I described that correctly). I've pulled the DM Module (which is a b*tch to remove without pulling the entire main chassis) and removed the power board.
Mac, do you have any info on this problem and/or what value caps I should replace these with? I'll snap a few pics of the board when I get back to the apt. in a few hours and post them. I'm going to bribe Draganm with some tasty brew to do the swap in a few weeks. 
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:30 am Post subject: |
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Ok, here are the pics of the board. Like I mentioned, my layman self doesn't see anything that looks amiss, but maybe you guys will see something.
Board in question:
Here's the best shot I could get of the caps up close:
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 12:48 am Post subject: |
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Just to be sure, is this the WS-55909?
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 1:03 am Post subject: |
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The Caps look fine but sometimes they are bad and start to leak from under but not enough to ooze out in plain site. Also it says see fuse Notice, I take it those 125v 2A and 4A Are fuses, id check those and I'd also check the diode's.
None of the resistors look bad either, Look on the underside to see if the connectors solder joints are ok, and a matter of fact all of the solder joints on the through hole and SMD stuff.
Athanasios
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 1:58 am Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | | Just to be sure, is this the WS-55909? |
Yes it is.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:06 am Post subject: |
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Ok. Change those 7 caps and replace them with 1000uf/25v. Dont even bother testing them. And check those fuses. When you put it back together and plug it in it may still blink. This is normal while the CPU boots up the DM module. It may blink for 70 to 90 seconds. Just go have a coffee while its blinking.
What do you mean in a couple weeks. Get out that soldering iron and change them yourself. Its pretty cut and dry....
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:20 am Post subject: |
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I would, but my iron is in TX and I'm in CO. I'm flying back tomorrow for my little boy's birthday, but I'm not going to even bother trying to bring the iron through TSA security on the way back. It's a bit ironic, I guess - I've got all the spare time in the world right now, but practically no tools.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:37 am Post subject: |
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No Radio Shacks nearby. 9 bucks !!!
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:42 am Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | Ok. Change those 7 caps and replace them with 1000uf/25v. Dont even bother testing them. And check those fuses. When you put it back together and plug it in it may still blink. This is normal while the CPU boots up the DM module. It may blink for 70 to 90 seconds. Just go have a coffee while its blinking.
What do you mean in a couple weeks. Get out that soldering iron and change them yourself. Its pretty cut and dry.... |
I'm still very much a newbie when it comes to understanding circuit boards and components, so please humor me a bit...
When you say check the fuses, what would be the method - a voltmeter? I've got one at the house that I could grab this weekend if so. Am I reading the board correctly that F9B00 is 125V, 2A and F9B01 is 125V, 4A?
If the capacitors are bad, could that damage the fuses?
I know these are pretty elementary questions, but I'm trying to understand the concepts as I go.
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:51 am Post subject: |
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Holy crap, man! I was searching Mouser for some replacement capacitors for this thing (thanks for the tip, Draganm), but there are still pages and pages to choose from. How do you guys narrow things down to the correct one?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Langley, BC
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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Use the filters. 1000 uf, 25 volt, radial leads, 105 degree. That should knock the amount down to a dozen or so.
That's not hte main power supply board is it? Where's the bridge rectiifiers and voltage regulators?
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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Location: West Seneca NY
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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| Ridebreck wrote: | | Holy crap, man! I was searching Mouser for some replacement capacitors for this thing (thanks for the tip, Draganm), but there are still pages and pages to choose from. How do you guys narrow things down to the correct one? |
Matt those are nichicon VZ series caps, their very basic, bottom of the line, high temp. cap. IT's a decent piecee and better than anything electrohome put in their Marquee's but not ideal for a switching power supply. the H0140 is just a date code.
I'm pretty sure that's a .5" (12.5mm) diameter can and there's no room between them. Curt's suggestion to put a 25V cap in there is perfect but in order to fit one in there you'll need to go taller instead of wider. The Panny FC series that Nash mentioned is perfect for this, I just ordered a dozen of these in 50 volt rating and they measure 0.492" Dia x 1.575" H (12.50mm x 40.00mm) digi key part number P11263-ND. Just make sure you can accomodate the height and it doesn't interfere with somethign in the chassis.
If they fit I can pop a set in 10 minutes when you bring me the board.
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | Use the filters. 1000 uf, 25 volt, radial leads, 105 degree. That should knock the amount down to a dozen or so.
That's not hte main power supply board is it? Where's the bridge rectiifiers and voltage regulators? |
Negative. It's the power board for the DM Module, which I believe contains the ATSC tuner, CF card slot(for firmware updates), firewire inputs, and some other associated functions. It's a seperate box off to the side of the main chassis, but I guess it's a key piece in the startup diagnostics for the whole enchilada.
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | | Ridebreck wrote: | | Holy crap, man! I was searching Mouser for some replacement capacitors for this thing (thanks for the tip, Draganm), but there are still pages and pages to choose from. How do you guys narrow things down to the correct one? |
Matt those are nichicon VZ series caps, their very basic, bottom of the line, high temp. cap. IT's a decent piecee and better than anything electrohome put in their Marquee's but not ideal for a switching power supply. the H0140 is just a date code.
I'm pretty sure that's a .5" (12.5mm) diameter can and there's no room between them. Curt's suggestion to put a 25V cap in there is perfect but in order to fit one in there you'll need to go taller instead of wider. The Panny FC series that Nash mentioned is perfect for this, I just ordered a dozen of these in 50 volt rating and they measure 0.492" Dia x 1.575" H (12.50mm x 40.00mm) digi key part number P11263-ND. Just make sure you can accomodate the height and it doesn't interfere with somethign in the chassis.
If they fit I can pop a set in 10 minutes when you bring me the board. |
I'll bring back one of my el cheapo rulers from TX to get more accurate dimensions. From memory, they're about 1/2" x ~1"h. I think a 1.5" will be too tall, but I'll check my clearance on Sunday night. I'm flying out this afternoon.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 4:14 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, Mac. I ordered some of the nichicons from Digikey. The old ones are approx. 3/8" dia x 5/8" high, but there is right at an inch of clearance from the board to the cover.
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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So I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the convergence IC since this puppy is 6 years old. It seems to be a fairly common occurence for them to start going out around this age, which I guess is understandable since these things look like they drive the convergence circuits pretty hard.
Mac, do you have an opinion on this?
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
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| Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:37 am Post subject: |
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Well here's the deal. Bad convergence chips can also cause the blinking light and no turn on issue. This would of been the next suggestion if the DM cap change didn't solve it. But dont think the caps didn't need to be changed because they are also a common failure. The problem is it's hard to say how much money you should dump into this set until its at least partially running. I myself would probably replace the convergence chips but for me, if the set turned out no good I would still use the ic's in something else. So its kinda up to you at this point.
As for the convergence chips themselves, according to my records, that chassis has the STK392-110 chips which are a common failure chip. They are upgraded to STK394-160 or 160E. These can be purchased separately or in a Hitachi kit. If you buy them separately, make sure they are original Sanyo chips. This can be a task in itself finding originals unless you buy your stuff from some place you know has originals. If you get the Hitachi kit it has original Sanyos. The Hitachi kit number would be X480295, X480297 and a few others. The kit also has some resistors with it but just disregard them.
If you decide to replace them I could give you the place I get them from if you want. Just let me know. Have fun....
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Ridebreck
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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| Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:25 am Post subject: |
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Given that right now I only have about $115 invested in this unit, I'm not going to shed any tears over twenty or thirty more bucks for some IC's. The way that I'm looking at things, if either the caps or the IC's get this unit up and running, I could still order new B & G tubes from VDC and have a fairly minty fresh 55" RPTV for less than $500. No way am I going to thumb my nose at that.
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