CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[akajester]

I was told I needed to let my pj warm up properly before I did a final convergence. I thought that the 20 minute standard warmup was enough but after having issues with the convergence "seeming" to be off time and time again... It appears I need to let my pj warm up for at least an hour before convergence is solid.

My question is, does this seem extreme? Would updating the caps in the convergence tray possibly lower this warmup time? I'm pretty sure the screws are tight so the tubes shouldn't be shifting around. The blue/red can be off by as much as 1/4 inch until about 50 minutes into the warmup process.

My biggest gripe with the time is that I don't want to run the pj for an hour to have my htpc menu look nice. 20-30 minutes would be preferred. I'm trying to keep the hours on my pj as low as possible.

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

-akajester

[betel]

I ran an 808 for several years. Twenty minutes was more than enough time for the convergence to stabilize. I was using an 6 x 8 screen with the convergence only slightly off at start up. Nothing near 1/4" Something must be wrong.

[secstate]

It could be a number of things. What are the hours on your projector? Some things I have noticed over the years, the temperature of the room can make a big difference. My media room is frequently in the mid-upper 60s in the winter and I notice a lot more convergence drift until complete warmup than in the summer when it is 74+. Also how hard are your pushing the convergence are you in the preferred 80/20 region or outside that? That can make a big difference as well.

Also how is the your physical setup that makes a huge difference. Are all three rasters the same size? I have seen all kinds of convergence issues when they are not approximately the same size.

[Curt Palme]

I just swapped a convergence tray with someone complaining about drifting convergence, and he reported back that it now was rock solid.

[Curt Palme]

I just swapped a convergence tray with someone complaining about drifting convergence, and he reported back that it now was rock solid.

[akajester]

[akajester]

I was told that I should upgrade the caps on the horiz shift and vert deflection board, and that might help stabilize the raster shifting. I was also told to upgrade the caps on the smps, according to the barco service bulletin here;
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/Barco_FSB04_SMPU_Capacitor_Upgrade.pdf

Thanks again Kal and Curt!

Noob question, how do I go about picking out an appropriate capacitor that will work in the smps? According to the service bulletin, it says to replace both c104 and c114 100uf 85 caps with 105 caps.

The service manual shows those are identical and supplies the following info;
C EL RA 100M Z 25E2 85

Sorry for the noob questions. I'd like to go back to school for electronics! But I don't want to wait that long to fix my barco.

Thanks!

[Nashou66]

I always Suggest the Panasonic FC or FM series electrolytic capacitors. Nichon Brand are good too always look for low ESR or High Ripple, and High temp(105º)

Athanasios

[akajester]

Would this work? I checked out the capacitor and it said 25v on it.

Mouser Part #: 647-UPM1E101MED
Manufacturer Part #: UPM1E101MED
Manufacturer: Nichicon
Description: Low Impedance Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 105 Degree 100uF 25V 105c 6.3x15 20% 2.5LS

Capacitance: 100 uF

Dimensions: 6.3 mm Dia. x 15 mm L

Lead Spacing: 2.5 mm

Operating Temperature Range: - 55 C to + 105 C

Packaging: Bulk

Product: Low Impedance Electrolytic Capacitors

Termination Style: Radial

Tolerance: 20 %

Voltage Rating: 25 Volts

[akajester]

thanks everyone for the ideas. It looks like I mechanically aimed the tubes without having set to midpoints first. I noticed in my red and blue raster they were down to like 9 or 10 out of 100. I set them both to 50 and reaimed and it looks great! Now when I turn it on it's perfectly aligned after just a few minutes of warmup time. Success! Thanks!

[Elaine Benes]