CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[CIR Engineering]

Kaboom went the P19CLP09 9500LC Ultra tube while I was trying to get it off the hardware. Shame really, this was an 8 green tube with little wear, but an ESPN logo burned in... would have been a good tube for someone who wanted to do a 2.35 set up though.

Oh well, so I don't get to sell the used tube. I'm putting in a G90 Boeing simulation tube for this Ultra... should be a big improvement.

craigr

[MikeEby]

Damn, you didn't get hurt I take it? I had a 25" CRT implode on me ones it was not fun...Glass everywhere!

Mike

[perisoft]

[bbfarmht]

I'm not sure if its similar. But I work with tempered glass. On several occasions I have had the glass "blow up" in my hands. Normally its because i accidentally hit the edge on something. When tempered glass breaks it throws shards everywhere. I have gotten home and found glass in my boots.

[JorisS]

How does such a tube explode

[MikeEby]

[CIR Engineering]

Aside from loosing a few years of my life after breathing in CRT dust, I am fine.

These tubes are siliconed in really really well. I tried and tried to get the tube out, but in the end the tube gave up before the silicone did. If I knew it was going to implode, I would have just started out with a hammer and saved some time

Glass IS everywhere.

craigr

[PiDD]

I did the same thing a few weeks past ... maybe I was a little too excited with a new (to me) green tube. It was the second tube after I bought a VDC rebuild that was really soft. I was pumped to get my new ultra sharp green. The only issue is that it was in a LC casing. I followed Curt's procedure but the hammer claws did me in!!

I know they are supposed to implode... and I guess it did but man it exploded too! Glass everywhere. It blew the front off the tube!



Scared the sh*t outta me ... so that took a few years off me and no telling what the phosphorus did.

[CIR Engineering]

Bummer that you had the C element in when it happened Did it get scratched?

Lucky for me I had removed the C element to try and cut through the silicone from the front as well. The one I imploded was just siliconed so well that I could not get it free. Even after it imploded I had a hard time removing the front of the tube. I wound up hammering it from the front until it cracked all the way and then pulling out the pieces separate.

craigr

[Nashou66]

yeah the way its done in curts advanced procedures is not the best way now that we have a safe way to remove the bellow and C-element. What i did was to remove the C-element and Bellow. Cut out all the silicone around the tube. Then you can either soak around the tube with turpentine or go from the front of the tube face with a thin flat flexible knive and try to get it between the tube face and the anodized metal plate the the tube is siliconed to. Work it all around the tube face, once you get in far enough about 1/8 inch i took a thin screw driver or you can use some type of metal wedge and tap it into the fine gap you created with the knive. On one tube the knive was enough. one i had to let sit over night with turpentine and it popped right out.

PS :Craig you still coming through Buffalo are later this month?

Athanasios [/code]

[1031]

This is how i removed those tubes from hardware.
1. drillet out that "grey stuff"
2. soaked silicone few days with brake cleaning spray
3. cuttet silicone seam away with small blade knife

[km987654]

[Ile]

[km987654]

[1031]

[km987654]

Sony tubes have a glued on lens. I am not sure how that glue would react to turpentine?

[Ile]

[km987654]

[cmjohnson]

Pardon me for saying it, but you guys are a bunch of monkeys!


Let me explain a better way to remove a 9500LC tube from the LC assembly without harming anything.

You need a long drill bit that is small enough to easily sink into the space between the aluminum casting and the glass CRT,
touching only the silicone.

Put this long bit in a variable speed cordless screw gun and start drilling through the silicone, as many holes as you can, almost touching
each other. Be patient, it takes a while. Drill down until you encounter more resistance but not a bit past that point.

After you've completed your ring of nearly touching holes, insert a screwdriver or hex wrench that matches well to the size of the holes
you drilled, and start gently levering out the pieces of silicone between the holes.


Next, the removal: If you haven't already done so by now, disassemble the LC assembly until you have just the rear casting with the
tube in it. All the rest should be set aside.

Cut a piece of plywood or MDF or particle board or whatever else you have lying around, shaped to fit pretty neatly into the front of
the casting and touching the CRT face. You don't want a lot of gap between the edge of the block and the casting, because you want
to support as much of the CRT face as is possible.

This piece of wood you just cut should be thick enough that when you place it on the CRT face, at least a good quarter inch, or more,
is above the level of the casting.

Place the block on your workbench. Place the CRT and casting on top of the block, settling the block onto the CRT face. Now, get
out the clamps. Bar clamps are fine. Clamp both sides of the assembly to the bench with two or more different clamps. Tighten
them down to firm but not really tight. Every few minutes, give each clamp handle about a half turn, alternating from one to the other.

In a few turns and a few minutes, the silicone will give up and the tube will start to come out, UNDAMAGED.

I've done this a number of times and it's always successful. No problem at all.


CJ

[km987654]

Thanks for the process. I am not sure that its too different to whats been suggested but again thanks. I guess there are worse things than being called a monkey!! Anyway whats wrong with monkeys??