CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[damien55]

Hi,

I just bought a P16 tube to replace my worn 180DVB blue tube. The problem is that my projector is air coupled and the P16 tube comes from a Liquid coupled 808 projector.

Can someone tell me what to do to transform the p16 LC tube into an air coupled tube.

It looks like the LC chamber is sealed with some black silicon thing at the back. Do I need to get that off?


Thanks


Damien

[Ile]

Take glycol out, remove c-element and cut rtv, sometimes it's needed to cut also from front side.
I have used basic Olfa cutter.


You can also soak tube in turpentine or brake cleaner to make rtv softer.

Similar thing with ac tube.

Then you have to clean parts and glue hardware to tube using automotive rtv. I have used black Hylomar 102.

[damien55]

Hi Ile,

Thanks for your answer.
If I understand well I just unglue the tube from the LC housing and glue it to the AC one? how much of the black stuff do I need? Is 85g enough?

I'll make a picture of the actual housing. I think it comes from a retro graphics 808s (it's written BGR 808s +iris3 120V on the deflection yoke sticker) as it doesn't have sheimplflug adjustment (must be set for the size of the screen in the factory).
The tube is a P16LNP07BMB, can you confirm that it will replace my 180dvb22 without any modification to the electonic?
I've heard that they are like the 180DVB22 but sharper.

Thanks again

Damien

[secstate]

The P16LNP will work fine without any electrical modification in your Barco. I did a smiliar swap in my Data 808s and the P16s worked great once I had installed the right hardware.

[damien55]

Hi,

Thanks for your help.
I've made some pictures of the new tube:

The new tube with the LC housing, isn't it beautiful:


The tube face, it doesn't get better than that does it? :


The black stuff I have to cut to get the tube out :


the old tube with the same kind of black stuff :


I'll order the silicone Ile recommended. I think I'll take 2*85g just in case 85g is not enough. If you are interested I'll make pictures of the process.

Thanks

Damien

[damien55]

Hi,

I need your help again.
I ordered the Hylomar 102 Ile recommended but unfortunately I have to wait 2 weeks minimum because the company is out of stock on this product at the moment. I then started to look at other similar products.
I found different loctite RTV silicones that I can get from a local shop. The problem is that I don't know which one to get.

Loctite 5940:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_201859_langId_-1_categoryId_165691#dtab

Loctite 598:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173106_langId_-1_categoryId_165691

Loctite 5920:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173139_langId_-1_categoryId_165691#dtab

The first one seams to come in a smaller tube, so at the moment I would think that the 598 is the best option for me but is it suitable for the job???


Datasheets can be found on http://www.loctite.co.uk/

Thanks

Damien

[Ile]

Loctite 598 should be good for the job, it's black, non corrosive and it withstand glycol.

[damien55]

Hi,

I started cutting the silicone with my cutter. Didn't realised it would be so hard. The thing is glues 2cm deep into the housing.
Now because I don't think all the time I thought that the glass at the front is part of the actual tube. I now think it's not and in that case I was about to do something silly.

So to make sure I don't break anything I have lots of questions for you guys:

1/ Do I have to cut the silicone surround the front of the assembly (see picture below)???

I assume NO as it is not part of the actual tube

2/ Is the grey dot just paint to seal a bleeding screw?


3/If it is a bleeding screw then I guess I have to bleed the thing before going any further.

4/ How do I put the glycol back between the front glass and the tube? Via the bleeding point? Do I need a big syringe ?

5/ It doesn't look like there is any bubble in the chamber. Do I have to fill up the housing to the brim?


6/ In the end I didn't get the Loctite 598 but the Loctite 5910 is that going to work with the glycol and stuff?

7/ Do you know anything that would actually disolve the silicone? (Acetone...)




I know it's a lot of questions but it would be criminal to wrek a mint tube just because I didn't ask.

Thanks


Damien

[secstate]

1). NO. You only need to cut around the back. I assume the silicone in the front holds the glass in. It does not need to be removed.

2). Yes that is correct.

3). Yes.

4). Yes you refill though the port and yes a syringe will be a big help. Also before attaching tube to housing, blow out ALL dirt and be careful when you refill that no dirt gets in that way either.

5). I was told to leave an air bubble and did.

6). Don't know I just used black silicone from an autoparts store that was resistant to grease and gycol. It worked fine.

7). Folks have had good results with mineral spirits. Acetone might work but would probably evaporate quickly if not sealed in some way. It is going to take a while to sink in. I have always just used strength and sharp knives and if you think these are a pain don't try the newer Barco 9" tubes. Ugh....

[damien55]

Thanks Secstate,

The tubes are out... and I'm knackered!!!

Can someone tell me if the Loctite 5910 will do the job. It can withstand permanent contact with oil at high temperature so I guess Glycol is not that bad is it?

Link to the loctite page:
http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/SID-0AC83309-DF56B024/henkel_uke/hs.xsl/3217_UKE_HTML.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IYNE

Thanks again for your help.


Damien