CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

Ouch! I think I understand your suggestion as to the only real way to see if the initial setup was correct.
Dave Harper did the original setup in '02 and came back in '06 for another, after I noticed this problem seeming to get worse. If the red moves up 125mm and 0mm down, and the red moves 42mm left and 52mm right, what would be the solution, if the initial setup was done correctly (it took initially about 5 hours from someone who had done many of these projectors). Erasing all the memories sounds scary (I'm having a lot of mine erasing these days as it is)

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

you can use the Marquee Librarian software to save all your setting to a computer and then put them back.

Dave was one of the engineers for a clone version of the marquee so he definitely knows his PJ's.

Over time it is possible for the the focus coils to possibly move or loosen from heat changes , vibration of the PJ and if it ceiling mounted and you have kids who bang around on the floor above this may happen.

use the Librarian and save the settings. then check the grids after a reset.

Athanasios

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

Would a Marquee Clone, like the TAW HD-800, be likely to have the Marquee Librarian software?
How would I find such a program? Should I try the Zero option first, then reinitialize to get you guys more info?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

Sorry, this is pretty new stuff for me.
I'll try the Zero option tonight after work.
I appreciate all the advice!

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

So, I download the "Librarian" from the website...not find it in the built-in software.
Do you print out stuff and then manually enter on the printout all the settings?
Or do you interface with the projector somehow?
(ignorance at work)

CRT_Ben · Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1684 Location: Northern Virginia

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

CRT_Ben · Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1684 Location: Northern Virginia

Yeah a bit harsh I guess, sorry. I've been working 10 hour days recently and it's getting old Sad

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

"Like I said earlier, go into any converegnce menu and push ZERO, turn contast down a little, and see where the grids are on the tube. I bet the red is way up towards the top. Also look to see how tall each grid is, they should be close to the same height relative to each other.

Here is the (not-so-great)photo from the "zero option"
What do you think?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Yepp the red looks way off. it needs to be mechanically centered so you dont use the electronics so much , having it that much off from the green will cause excessive strain on the convergence circuits and scan yokes circuits. you need to go in there and physically move the focus coil by loosening the three brass wing nuts and removing any hot glue used to hold it in place, if there is no hot glue then it will be easier but after i recommend putting some on there to hold in place better. Go to times marquee site, I think there is an explanation on how to do this. also add the blue into this pic so you can see if that needs adjustment as well. One piece of advice if you can use an external grid pattern while doing this it would be better as the timing from your actual source will be different from thew internals.

It is also skewed a bit, not on the horizon like the green is. That is a bit more involved and if your not comfortable getting near the open wires on the scan yokes dont do it. Leveling the scan Yoke is also explained on Tims Site.

Athanasios

1031 · Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 657 Location: Finland

http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip9.htm

Here is link to Tim´s site

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

Thanks to all of you for your assistance. I really appreciate the advice and diagnosis. If any of you have dental questions, just let me know.
RP

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

Hey all...been lurking for some time with what few minutes a day I have to call my own (usually in the wee hours after work) but haven't had anything to add or ask....until now. Laughing

I haven't used my HT often in the last few months due to work demands so the 8500 hasn't seen alot of use. I think it's important to note this as my HT is pretty cold when not in use.

Recently I fired it up to play BioShock2 and noticed the red had drifted down and to the left slightly after the usual 30-60 min warmup and I have red flaring. I checked the flare (red blobs look overly large compared to blue. Green has always had rather large blobs but the patterns are crisp.) then unlocked the memory, tweeked the convergence and all was good...until I fired it up again the next night. I can reconverge forever it seems and the next cooldown warmup cycle it's the same thing all over again.

I've also noticed the pic isn't as sharp on the left half of the screen just below the horizontal center of the screen extending to the bottom left as it once was.

The last pic in this post is exactly what I'm experiencing. Maybe it's me but I'm also seeing my blacks aren't below black like they were. (I checked G2 and all is good there). That however may just be my overtired brain when I eek out those precious few minutes to use it at the end of a long day. I've done a reinitialization and zeroed the appropriate subsystems and it appears my mechanical alignment raster centering is OK so I'm not driving anything hard.

That said, I 'think' I need to recap the Vertical Board (the whole pj needs to be done but that will have to come later). I wonder if someone would be so kind as to post a shopping list of the caps needed? I didn't silently search the Marq Mnt Thread because I think it's important as time passes to revist some issues as our machines age and bring that to the forefront again.
I can do the legwork to find a vendor for them myself but if somebody wants to 'feed me for a day' and provide a vendor they've used before to ensure I get the best quality matching components possible that would be great too.

One last thing (isn't there always just ONE more thing? Laughing

)...I'm fairly pissed off at myself for not being able to find a screen to pj alignment that gives me the warm fuzzies. Every time I have a problem I come back to that. I never have been able to get the grid lines the same thickness/sharpness across the board even after making a gauge block to set the plates and fighting with flapping for hours on end.
So question...can I use the top tube hold down plate (with the ABCD screws/bolts) as a reference? That should be squared to the mounting bolt pattern of the frame yes? I happened to notice it the other night when I had the lens cover off and thought I'd get youze opinions before moving the pj.
I know I need to get an accurate physical placement for everything else to follow in line but before the drifting/flaring started I had a pretty darn good pic going.

Thanks guys! I hadn't intended to make this so long but even as it stands I don't feel I've clearly depicted what's going on.
BTW...It's great to see everyone still here. Thumbs Up

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Greg here is the link to the parts, I think Digikey has the Panasonic FC/FM series i use.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=141823#141823

I would first clean all connectors on the boards, the cool temps can create moisture and slight oxidation.

Also are you sure the 4 bolts across the lens plates were secure and tight? I had the same issue and it was two bolts i forgot to tighten down firmly.

Athanasios