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Some Barco setup questions.......
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:50 am    Post subject:

I have the chip I replaced. Not sure of the firmware but will take a look. Should work OK with an Iris 2 If I can find it ...
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zGman



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 599


Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:01 am    Post subject:

OK Tom, that would be perfect - your 'old' chip should be able to tell us if
this idea will work out - and if so, then we can work on finding the latest
version...

Cool - that will be fun. Thanks!

Now I really really am going to get some sleeeep....

G
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:14 am    Post subject:

OK I'm Next !
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Mad Mr H



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 641
Location: London , England

Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:06 pm    Post subject:

PM sent to Galen..........


Thanks for the nudge Tom.

Laughing
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jkruger



Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA

Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:22 pm    Post subject:

My Runco 1100 has V7.13 and I would be interested in a newer version if you guys get this figured out. I'd hate to miss out on what might be the last chance to do this.
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NewbieDAN



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 319
Location: Bunbury Western Australia

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:38 am    Post subject:

Back to Barco picture tuning setup questions Wink


What should my Clamp, Sync & peaking be set to for 1080p

what about Orbiting controls


Gamma? is it worth mucking about with the blue, slope break point?

Cheers
Dan

_________________
Sorting the fly sh*t from the pepper
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:41 am    Post subject:

Mad Mr H wrote:
PM sent to Galen..........


Thanks for the nudge Tom.

Laughing


Thanks ! Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Sorry Dan for the interuption... Wink
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 6:21 am    Post subject:

NewbieDAN wrote:
What should my Clamp, Sync & peaking be set to for 1080p

what about Orbiting controls


Gamma? is it worth mucking about with the blue, slope break point?

Cheers
Dan

Clamp normal
Sync slow
Peaking off
Orbiting off with video
On with static objects like in games, if no games it should be easy to remove R9827781 orbiting kit from vertical board.

Gamma adjustments are good with colorimeter, but without it leave those alone.
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huggy



Joined: 02 Aug 2008
Posts: 927
Location: Melbourne,Australia

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 6:44 am    Post subject:

Well I've redone the setup and have a couple of questions

1)I've adjusted sheimpflug and mechanical focus,I cant get the corners well focused,I only notice it with text.Ive tried the 3*5 card trick and it seems all 4 corners are in the focal plane at equal distances from the screen so I'm assuming sheimflug is correct however,I cant get it well focused with lense rotation.Is it a limitation of the lenses?HD 120's.

2)The left hand side is a huge pain in the ass in regards to convergence,the only way I ca fix it is to shift raster slightly to one side,the wear on the green suggests the previous install had the same issue, hence the wear is off centre.
Is it O.K not to have raster perfectly centred?

Dave
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:04 am    Post subject:

1. What is your screen width? HD120 is made for 2-3 m wide picture.

2. Adjust picture with Hphase to right from raster center, this helps with left side convergence with high resolutions -> beam have more time to stabilize. Then adjust side blankings correctly and finally center picture to center of tube with raster centering.
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huggy



Joined: 02 Aug 2008
Posts: 927
Location: Melbourne,Australia

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:42 pm    Post subject:

Ile wrote:
1. What is your screen width? HD120 is made for 2-3 m wide picture.



Screen is 120" diagonal 16*9 which is 2.7 m wide,so well within spec.


Dave
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zGman



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 599


Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:38 am    Post subject:

Hi Dave,
If you can input an external fine grid (displaymate or colorfacts test pattern)
and turn down the contrast a bit so you don't fry your eyes, and look in the lenses,
you should be able to see if the lines are all in focus on the tube face. If the focus
is the same all over the tube face, that is, if the center looks the same as the corners,
then the issue is optical - however, if there's a difference, as I might suspect,
it is time to work with the astig setup in the service menu. You can actually use
that same external grid pattern to work with the astig settings - you will see the lines
expand and contract in different directions with each control, and should be able to improve
the focus considerably.....( yes I know, everyone will jump in to say that it is all about dot shape,
but honestly, you can get quicker results sometimes just to use an external fine grid....)
Good Luck, and Happy New Year,
Galen
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