CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Nashou66]

Lori you say the focus is off on the left side, can you adjust it and it comes back into focus or does it not focus at all?

Athanasios

[loribates]

It seems electronic. If I reset everything and do a setup (like i did last night, a different setup for all three sources,saved to different recall settings) when I switch between them, that's part of what is happening, the convergence, geometry are out of whack and everything is really out of focus or "blooming" mostly on the left, but also to the right at the extremes. The center stays pretty good.

[loribates]

So...... we have the worst radio shak in the lower 48. They did not have the deOxit. I searched every shelf and asked them for it by name. They never heard of it here. The only thing they had was "Precision Electronics Cleaner" "Cleans dust, dirt and oxidation" "Safe on most plastics" "Leaves no residue" It's a spray can with a red tube like you find on canned air and WD40.

Will this be safe to use? They had no chip pullers either. I looked and I asked. This store has really sized down their inventory the last year or so. They used to have twice what they carry now.

Is there a safe improvisational tool to remove the chips or should I just spray the contacts as best I can?

I'd like to do this before I have to go get ready to go to supper with the in-laws (oh joy) so it can be drying while I am gone. If anyone can get back to me I'd be grateful.

[Nashou66]

Ic puller is the safest i have seen too many pins on chips bent from people using a small flat head driver. I guess use that stuff for now, also pick up the denatured alcohol. Do an Online search for deOxit or http://www.stabilant.com/ more expensive but you can just dropper it onto the pin sockets. This does sound like a CLM issue, also measure the battery voltage if you have a multimeter or get one, they are handy to have.

Athanasios

[loribates]

I've cleaned it best I can and it's sitting to dry. The battery is reading 3.03 v , considering it's marked as a 3 volt battery, looks good to me.

[loribates]

Curt.

If you happen to read this... Can you tell me anything I might be losing to swap out this board with the one on the old pj. You said my pj had all the required mods when I got it so what am I looking at losing if I plug in the other one (other than all my settings ).

[Nashou66]

[loribates]

They are very different. All of the revision numbers on the chips on the old boards are older than the current board.

Here are the two:

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/pj

I did note that the screws that secure the daughter board from the underside were loose enough to rattle when I picked up the board this time. At first I thought it was just the screws on the face plate rattling. Could the daughter board not being securely seated cause the behaviour it's been exhibiting?

Curt or Tim in Phoenix, can the old board be upgraded and if so, I'd like to send it to one of you to have that done so I have an identical spare.

[Nashou66]

Yep the old one is from an 8000. Yours newer one looks like it has the power supply input section(near connector) modded by Mike parker or someone else.
You can try to use it sometimes they work sometimes they don't from me trying them out on my 8500. This way at least you can see if its the CLM. Also remove your DPB and reseat it a few times, those connector pins might need ceaning.

Athanasios

[loribates]

Well I've done another setup and convergence for the dvd player. I'm flippin scared to even try setting up the pc for fear of jacking up what I just did.

It is saved and locked but I've got bad feeling about flipping that switch on the kvm.

[loribates]

One other thing I've noticed. When setting size and phase. Using phase to center the image on the raster I am always about 3 clicks short of the whole image on either side. If I move it to the right until the whole left side shows then about 7 clicks worth is hidden on the right and vise vera. Size just changes the size of what is there. It doesn't change how much is hidden. Centering it splits the difference to about 3 clicks. All blanking is set to zero.

[Nashou66]

[Elaine Benes]

[loribates]

Its ok. I know I'm running on sub par equipment compared to what most of you have. I have to bide my time and sneak purchases or scavange "gimmes" (like the kvm switch the PC store outright gave me because it was the only vga switch they had and it was just used and sitting on the shelf gathering dust...) Yes there are better methods but as far as the family is concerned its awesome the way iit is. "They" (translate "HE") doesn't get how much effort I put into this so that we can have something special. The rest of the family would be happy with a damned lcd pj while I would sit here and cry.....

Anyway, they don't "get" it.

That said, you can understand why all the help you guys offer and advice you give means a lot to me and I appreciate the time you all take to answer my questions and help me out.

[loribates]

Holy hell. I finally got it to work. I found the answer in a post by JustGreg here: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=132810#132810

I was under the assumption that if I had recalls setup and that was the recall memory I was using at the time and had it unlocked any changes I made were saved to that recall memory. Apparently not so. What finally made it work was that when I was through with my adjustments, I had to not only save, but do a copy and copy them back to the current recall.

Thank GOD! I was not looking forward to doing this yet again if it didn't work.

Thanks everyone for all of your help!

[Nashou66]

[Elaine Benes]

Did you try changing your retrace setting to "Short" to see if you could get the whole signal displayed ??

[loribates]

[Tim in Phoenix]