CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Paid $900 Australian dollars for it, which seemed like abit of a bargain to me.

Looking forward to getting it here and seeing what its like, all i have read about them seems pretty promising.

I wont have it installed until my new house is built, at which time im not looking forward to the lifting part, cause at 50kgs +, it sounds like quite a bloody heavy barstard!!

What sort of things should i do to this rig when it turns up so i can avoid premature failure??

[kschmit2]

check to make sure the tubes still have an air bubble.

see instructions here: http://www.curtpalme.com/Bleeding_CRT_Tubes1.shtm

If there is no bubble, you should bleed the tubes. Unfortunately you may have to do that again before you install it in your new house.

[jask]

Congratulations, as Kai said check those tubes. I would power it up and ensure that it is working properly....at that point it really is a lot of fun just "trying " to converge it....next thing you know it is 3 in the morning and you are posting on the forum.....and watching out for your "next" projector.
That is a great projector!

[AnalogRocks]

What more than one projector? But why?

[AnalogRocks]

What more than one projector? But why?

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Thanks people, ill be looking into all that info when i can

[Mr. Green]

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Gday Mr Green, how are ya mate?

The advert for it says it will do 1080p but looks abit softened, and is up the the individual whether they prefer 1080i, 720p, or 1080p.

Ill put a bluray player in the computer and use a program before id use the PS3 for that, but i will be looking into the HD Fury for sure. The Harman Kardon AVR i have upscales everything if you want it to, seems to work quite well.

Change out the capacitors? Bugger me that sounds like alot of work mate, is it worth the effort?

Thanks for your replies

[lostmandan]

Welcome!

Ahh, it is always worth the effort. I recall thinking that the more work that goes into a setup, the higher the satisfaction. YMMV, of course.

Mr. Green is referring to the issue that a few of us have had where 1080p/60 signals are scrambled (not to be confused with another fault called the 'dreaded scrambled mess').
I am seeing the scrambled but sync'd issues with my unit, and I believe Mr. Green is seeing it with his. Not exactly sure of the cause yet, but sometimes this can be caused by capacitors on the deflection board. This was not the case for me, unfortunately.
I would suggest seeing what your starting point is before even considering replacing capacitors. "Don't break what ain't broken", so to speak.

I would suggest carefully inspecting boards - I found leaky capacitors on my WAVE PWB which I replaced.

Keep Curt in mind for board repair - he is "your man" for all repair.

In North America it is advisable to ensure that the electrical circuit being used does not develop a voltage between the ground and neutral conductors. It is advised to run a separate circuit from the load center/breaker panel for the PJ on 120V service. I see you are in Oz, so you will have 220V service? If so, I believe this is less of an issue.

As Mr. Green mentioned, I started a thread a while back to research which system boards/deflection boards, etc are in NEC PG projectors. There are black ink stamps (for example '1X0-154AJ') on the boards. The quest was started so I could get an idea of what combinations work for 1080p (not scrambled) and which ones exhibit the issue.

Let us know how things go for you and post back

Cheers,
Dan

[CasetheCorvetteman]

No worries Dan, thanks for your reply mate

We are on 240v here, i havent got my meter at home (left it at work, only got an automotive one here, doesnt do A/C) so im not sure the exact voltage, however where i work (i do maintenance there) the voltage is between 228v and about 237v, depending on where it is measured in the building and how far away from the distribution board it is. 3 phase power is around the same for each phase when measured phase-to-neutral, when measured phase to phase is anywhere from 410v to 415v (i got 410 the other day when i checked one.)

I dont mind the effort involved in the set up of the unit, that is certainly worth the effort, but i dont know about replacing perfectly good components though!!

[lostmandan]

Understood. I definitely do not suggest replacing perfectly good components either.

When do you get your PJ? I remember the excitement when I was waiting for mine

Dan

[Mr. Green]

Hey guys,

Yeah, sorry. I was a bit tired when I rambled through that. I didn't mean you have to replace all the capacitors, just that you might notice some are leaking and need replacing. I'm too scared to look myself at the moment. It's running beautifully on 1080i right now and I want to enjoy it for a bit before fiddling with it.

Next Thursday, my poor old 9PG+ is going up a brand new Epson 1080p LCD projector . A friend just took delivery of it yesterday so we'll see how it goes. We are going to shoot at the same screen with the same source. I'll just picture mute when we are looking at his.

Spec's here... http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Pro_Cinema_1080_UB.htm

I'm pretty sure it's gonna smoke mine since I'm not done getting mine up to the level I want (I need to work on the sharpness a bit and colours are a bit off). For the 2 hour showdown I'll run the tubes a bit harder if I need to. I'm really hoping mine does well against it.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Look at the specs:

Street Price (USD) : $2,999
MSRP (USD) : **
Brightness (Lumens) : 1600 ANSI
Contrast (Full On/Off) : 50000:1
Variable Iris: Yes
High Brightness:
ANSI Lumens: **
Contrast Ratio: 4000:1
High Contrast:
ANSI Lumens: **
Contrast Ratio: 50000:1
Audible Noise: **
Eco-Mode: 24.0 dB
Weight: 5.4 kg
Size (cm) (HxWxD) : 12.2 x 31.0 x 39.6
Std. Lens: Focus:
Manual
Zoom: Manual, 2.10:1
Throw Dist (m) : 2.5 - 4.5
Image Size (cm) : 101.6 - 381.0
Optional Lenses: Yes
Digital Zoom: **
Digital Keystone: No
Lens Shift: Horz & Vert
Networking: Wired:
No
Wireless: No
Warranty: 3 Years
Performance:
H-Sync Range: **
V-Sync Range: **
Compatibility:
HDTV: 720p, 1080i, 1080p/60
1080p/24
EDTV/480p: Yes
SDTV/480i: Yes
Component Video: Yes
Video: Yes
Digital Input: HDMI (HDCP)
Computers: Yes
Display: Type:
1.9 cm 3LCD
Native: 1920x1080 Pixels
Maximum: 1920x1080 Pixels
Aspect Ratio: 16:9 (HD)
Lamp: Type:
170W E-TORL
Life: **
Eco-Mode Life: 3000 hours
Quantity: 1
Speakers: No
Max Power: **
Voltage: 100V - 240V
FCC Class: B
Special: RS232 Port

Status: Shipping
First Ship: Dec 2007

** this item is either not applicable, unpublished, or unknown


Those are called a TW2000 over there in Australia. Its only got a 4,000:1 contrast ratio, so i dont know why they give a number of 50,000:1 as well, which one do you believe? It will also be interpolated on any res that isnt 1080i or 1080p, so it wont look its best when on 720p, so if you use 720p as a base, yours should easily look nicer assuming his is going on the same screen (im not sure how his will go on your screen though, its got about double the lumens, may be too bright for a 2.4 gain...)

[Mr. Green]

He'll use the cinema mode to get it as dark as possible. The 50,000-1 one is acheived through a dynamic iris or something. It will have to be 1080i. That's what I have setup.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

What frequency are you running on 1080i? If its 72Hz or more you probably dont notice any flicker, where as LCD are pretty near all 60Hz, and i know both mine flicker abit when 1080i goes in.

If the rig youve got will almost do 1080p, you should be able to do a respectable scan rate on 1080i, cause its only displaying half the lines. Ill have to wait til i get mine and see what i see

[Mark_A_W]

Bleed the tubes.

Add a fan or two the deflection board heatsink - old Athlon CPU fans are thin enough.

Add a heatsink and fans to the baseplate opposite the C and F drives.


And Mr Green, the time has come. A decent new digital will smoke a PG.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Thanks for your advice mate, between me and a mate up here, we now have 2 of them, as he just bought one today as well for about $723 with a motorized screen.

[AnalogRocks]

[AnalogRocks]

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Yeah mate, ive been there with digital for a few years, as i said though, never had one fail and never blown a bulb, but they do lose brightness and contrast gradually over the first 12 months.

I always liked the CRT smoothness, which no matter what digital you go and what the native is, it still is over sharp and has jaggies you cant get rid of without putting it slightly out of focus. DLP is just as bad as LCD for the jaggies, and the screen door is shut on both of them if youre close enough.

For the money these days, you cant buy a digital that beats an analog CRT projector in any respect apart from overall lumens, and i dont watch movies with all the lights on!!

[Spanky Ham]

[AnalogRocks]

[AnalogRocks]