CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

radar · Joined: 05 Dec 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Sydney, Australia

Hi folks,

Just picked up my 'new' Marquee 8500 flown in from the US. Well... I got it home, plugged it in (quiet fan noise started), pressed 'power' on the internal keypad heard some louder fan noises and some clicks ... waited... waited... pressed #... waited.... but no picture or test pattern. What is my first diagnostic test to see what the problem is?

FYI, the green 'power' light is on the back, none of the red diagnostic lights on the back are lit up.

Anyone?

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

It's always a good thing when getting a new pj that's been shipped to open it up and make sure everything is where it should be and connected correctly. With the power cord disconnected, unscrew the thumbscrews for the CLM, VIM and secondary input board if equiped and pull the boards out an inch or so and firmly and swiftly reseat them.

Then remove the top cover and make sure the 6 connectors are connected to the back swing down panel boards. The top cover is removed by popping off the lens cover panel, loosening the three screws at the lip of the large top cover, and slide the top cover to the rear a couple inches and lifting it off. Remove the 2 screws from each neckboard cover (there will be a braided ground strap to each one...remember to reconnect it after) and make sure the neckboards are firmly seated on the tube. The neckboards won't feel like they're firm when in position by design. Just gently press them onto the pins and that will be good enough. Also check for any cracks in the neck of the tubes while you're in there. Leave the covers off for now but reconnect the ground strap to each tube cage.

Check the HV splitter to make sure the leads are all connected firmly. These buggers are tricky. You might want to remove the two screws that hold the block down and lift the block up and twist the base connectors to the right. Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

Then remove the front PS panel and remove the screws securing the LVPS and the HVPS. Pull each PS 'box' out an inch or two and firmly and with authority push it straight back in. Don't c*ck them left or right while doing this. Once that's done, reinstall the screws for each PS. Leave the front cover off and plug the set in. You should hear a click or two and the fans will start. Let the filaments heat up for a couple minutes and then hit the power button.

If nothing there, it's time to pull all the boards and reseat the socketed IC's. Support the boards from the back directly under the chip when pressing them back in.Use alot of force. If they're not fully seated you'll hear a sickening crunch sound, this is what you're looking for actually.

Then if still nothing, follow the wired remote wire back to the motherboard/backplane and make sure the connector is firmly seated. Again, make sure any time you work inside that the power cord is pulled from the pj.

Lastly, if nothing is helping so far, go back into the neckboard area and with the power disconnected, remove one neck board at a time. Take your time with this. Remove the neckboard from the tube BEFORE trying to disconnect any connectors. The exception is the G2 wire that plugs in through a relief hole in the nb. Before removing this wire take a good look at what pin it's on. There should only be one pin to plug it into and the other one visible (just one? can't remember) will have shrink tube on it to prevent accidental G2 connection.
After removing each nb, plug the set in, wait a minute for filament warmup, and hit the power. Rinse and repeat.

If nothing at this point....you'll have to find somebody with board and PS's you can borrow long enough to nail down the culprit. Then you can either A) Buy a 'new' replacement board or B) send the suspect boards to Curt for testing/repair. With shipping the way it is nowadays it's cheaper to buy replacement boards. PS's can still set you back ~$150US so hopefully it isn't one of them. With the front PS cover still off look for red lights through the vent holes and document their location(s) for additional diags.

The whole time you're snooping around look for screws or other metal 'things' floating around on the motherboard, etc.

That's all I have. If I've misinformed you in any way the pro's will set us both straight but I think I gave you a good starting point to troubleshoot it.

Good luck!

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:23 pm Post subject:

Excellent advice Greg! But.. first thing to check it to make sure the HDM is properly seated. Assuming it worked fine right before shipping, I'll bet the HDM worked itself out of it's connector. That will result in a no pix condition with no error lights.

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

I forgot to mention the F board and HDM. Damn you Nyquil! Thanks for setting me right Curt. Embarassed

radar · Joined: 05 Dec 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Sydney, Australia

Fantastic advice and so comprehensive! I'll print this post off and start working on it tonight.

radar · Joined: 05 Dec 2007 Posts: 72 Location: Sydney, Australia

Just FYI, followed your instructions... got half way down the list where I pull the front cover off. Thats when I had that "TA DAAA" moment!!! The HVPS was out of the socket and the screws that holds it in was missing! (same with the LVPS). Pushed the HVPS back in, put new screws in and fired up the beast! The 3 eyed monster was alive!

Big thank you to Greg for the great instructions!

johnsmith808 · Joined: 15 Oct 2008 Posts: 100

I envy you. I wish my problem was that simple.....DOH!

Mr. Green · Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:14 am Post subject:

That must have been a "whew!" moment. Nothing sucks more than getting something in "working" condition that doesn't work on arrival...