CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Satanier]

Slight issue, when I pull up a convergence grid from my PC the bottom is cut off... should I try to approximate alignment amplitude to get what I can see of the circle as close to circular as I can?


Picture:

[Elaine Benes]

That is a combination of POSITION SHIFT and SIZE. Resize it smaller, shift it to be centered.

It *may* also be a reflection of pc timings...they are a whole nuther kettle of fish...

[Satanier]

Also, do I need to adjust anything other than amplitude and keystone in the adjust menu before I try to start converging?

[Elaine Benes]

[Satanier]

POSITION SHIFT and SIZE didn't correct the problem, but movies seem unaffected so I don't care.


I think my image tapers to be less tall on the left than it is on the right... is this normal?

And when you say I can align first if I prefer and to look only at the green grid, do you mean one from my PC or the internal grid?

[Elaine Benes]

I prefer to use a grid from the source, NOT the internal ones, but again, that is a personal preference. You turn the red and blue guns OFF with the remote when you're doing Alignment, whether you use an internal pattern or external, it makes no difference in that respect.

Use a grid from your source this time, just to get through it tonight.

I can't say for sure *why* your grid may not be perfectly symmetrical in all directions. It can be projector placement in relation to the screen, it has to be PERFECT in its physical positioning. If that is perfect, then it is an electronic control, in the Alignment menu, which you correct when you "do" your Alignment...
Remember, YOU set the projector, it doesn't do ANYTHING automatically. You're using someone else's settings too, there is no guarantee they apply to your installation.

PS: That frame is from "The Bourne Identity"...

[Satanier]

Ok so i've set it up to fit the screen basically using alignment.


Back to convergence, should I be using the internal test patterns for this?


And I'm totally lost from step one here, =\

[Elaine Benes]

[Satanier]

I'm still a bit confused as to what exactly I do with tilt and skew, sorry =\


Thank you SO much for walking me through this by the way, I was about ready to sell the thing before @_@

[Elaine Benes]

Ok, look at this image from my XG75 I threw onto the coffee table so I could have a reference to help walking you through this...



I've put arrows on the image to show you HOW Tilt/Skew affects the red line. It will move it AT BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM left/right, what you do is move it using Tilt/Skew till the amount it is OUT is EVEN on ONE side of the green line....

As you can see in the photo, the top has the red out of alignment less than the bottom but they're both on one side of the green line, that means this is very close, just shove the red using your left/right cursor buttons till it is EVENLY out of alignment on ONE side of the green line. When the amount the red is out from the green is the same at the top point, AND the bottom point, then you can use BOW, which affects BOTH top and bottom EQUALLY to pull/push it into the green line.

Your center is already aligned by doing correct raster centering/phase/toe in and touching up with STATIC, so now your outermost points in the center will end up perfectly aligned too...

PS: As a testament to doing it right...this XG75 sat on my floor all summer, today I put it back onto my coffee table, pushed it around for about 30 seconds to get it to the approximate position it had been in when I last had it setup, tweaked the STATIC a couple of clicks, and have an image that is virtually perfectly converged over the whole screen. It hasn't moved at all, even after being unused AND moved around for months....The misconvergence you see, I introduced on purpose for the purpose of the picture...

[Satanier]

I think I'm starting to understand bow and skew, that final description you just posted helped a LOT


Is this correct for the red?

[Elaine Benes]

That looks good. You're getting it.

Now, since you've got Tilt/Skew and Bow dialed in, it highlights the need for Linearity/Amplitude adjustment.

REMEMBER: You're only concerned with the middles of the grid at this point, do NOT look at the corners yet...

Before you adjust Amplitude and Linearity, make sure to go into "Linear-Bal", number 7 in the Convergence menu, and null it out by doing a Cancel/Yes and save....

After you've nulled all "Linear-Bal", number 7 in the Convergence menu, iterate between Linearity and Amplitude. It is a very similar experience as Tilt/Skew/Bow, basically you get the lines along the center axis to be evenly distributed with one control, then pull them in with the other...

Try it and you'll see how it works. Start in the horizontal plane first, its easier to see as you naturally look along the horizontal middle line. Pay careful attention to the outermost vertical line along the horizontal center when you're doing this.

[Satanier]

is it the linearity with separate controls for each side? or the total one, and what zones am i trying to focus on with this one?

And what about how it looks like some of the middles of the grid need to be tilted, and not just moved in one direction>\?

[Elaine Benes]

Re-read my previous post, I edited it to make it more clear....

[Satanier]

I think I see, its VERY IMPORTANT to only look at the four circled locations you sent me, and the rest falls into place when you focus on THOSE only!!!

heres my progress after the amplitude //// linearity

Should I wait until the red is fully finished before working on the blue? And what's the next step?






Thank you SO much man, I had lost all hope but things are coming together now!!!

[Elaine Benes]

[dropzone7]

Wow, you are getting real time help here from Paul. This is great! If you only knew how much time he is saving you. Listen very closely as you are getting great advice here. I'm taking pointers myself...

[Elaine Benes]

[Elaine Benes]

Before you get to the corners, I'd like to point out to you that you do NOT need to use ANY Linear-Bal as evidenced by the tightness of your grid along the horizontal and vertical centers, from middle to outermost edge...

It is important to note this, because when you started, I'd bet some had been used, but it was used in error to overcome ANOTHER error which was made during setup, likely from not doing Phase properly...

On to the corners...

Basically, Key and Pin(short for KeyStone and PinCushion) are complementary adjustments which only affect the ENDS of their adjustment area. Their adjustment area are the rectangular boxes I super-imposed on your previous picture. Imagine the rectangle is the adjustment area for Key and Pin, you choose which box to adjust with CTL and the correct Cursor key when you're in the particular adjustment you are trying to make.

So, for instance, we start with top Key, so we go to Adjust, Convergence, KeyStone, then hit CTL and Cursor Up. Now you'll see that the arrow is solid colored at the top position, this indicates it is the active convergence zone.

You adjust these two controls iteratively, just like the previous two sets of controls. First KeyStone, it will even out the distribution of the ends of the lines, anchored in the middle of the rectangle you are adjusting. So, watching only the ends of the top rectangle, adjust Key up and down till the lines are evenly distributed in the horizontal plane. When you've got only the ends of the box evenly on one side, then go to Pin, use the same zone, and adjust it whichever way you need to push/pull the ends up/dn to the green.

I realize that's a pretty wordy explanation, I'll try and make a pic to illustrate it better...

[MikeEby]