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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:31 am Post subject: XG135 system board swapped |
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Finally my XG135's unregistered signal is solved by swapping a system board from other XG135. The 1080P, 960P signals are easily locked by the projector now.
Before I do the geometry for the new entry, I want to know which of the following setup needed to do again:
I'm not sure whether the following setups need to be done again:
1) Mechanical Astig ?
2) Mechanical Focus coil?
3) Mechanical tilt?
4) reference white balance? (roughly fire a picture, it looks the same before swapping)
5) G2 setting? (roughly fire a picture, it looks the same before swapping)
I think the following setups should be done again:
1) Raster centering
2) Static setting
3) tube tone in
4) electronic Astig
5) electronic focus
Am I correct? Are there any steps missing?
Thanks in advance.
Ricky
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dropzone7
Joined: 12 Jun 2007
Posts: 1069
Location: Charlotte, NC
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| Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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As you probably know, I had to do the same system board swap with my XG. I took the opportunity to redo pretty much everything that I had done before. I would do in the following order:
1. Set all electronic adjustments back to zero or mid cursor.
2. All static convergence set to zero or mid cursor.
3. Center rasters.
4. Tube toe in on red and blue.
5. Optical focus.
6. Electronic focus.
7. Electronic astig.
8. Rough in geometry.
9. Rough in convergence.
10. G2 procedure.
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"Coffee is for Closers."
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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:43 am Post subject: |
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Hi, Drop
Thanks for your advice. Last night I did the setup again. The procedures are exactly the same of yours. Now the picture looks almost as good as before except the white balance. The picture is a bit warm. I've input the old system boards' Ref. white balance readings to replace those readings in the new board. It looks acceptable but still a tiny bit out. I think I will do a G2 setting tonight.
Ricky
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dbaisey
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 821
Location: Southern Cal LA / Seattle WA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:57 am Post subject: |
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Ricky,
On the old board look at bright and white uniformity value and set the same to start. Try to keep the same G2 voltage as before but check first in test position and then normal. Sounds like your pretty close. In reference check R and B drive against the old board as well as kelvin temp. Doug
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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:20 am Post subject: |
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Hi Doug,
As you have advised, I've written down all the readings(except geometry and convergency) of the old board and the new board. I shall check it tonight and post the readings when I go home tonight.
Thanks
Ricky
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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 1:51 am Post subject: |
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Last night I went home late no time to check the G2. Under the ref white balance menu in service mode, there are manuel and automatic options. The manuel is for input drive control, bias values manually. What is automatic? Is it tune up white balance automatically?  I don't think it would do that itself?
Ricky
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Elaine Benes
Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 1416
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:41 pm Post subject: |
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| rickycleung wrote: | Last night I went home late no time to check the G2. Under the ref white balance menu in service mode, there are manuel and automatic options. The manuel is for input drive control, bias values manually. What is automatic? Is it tune up white balance automatically? :) I don't think it would do that itself?
Ricky |
Auto is when you have a special computer and camera attached to the projector so it can do a type of ACON only with white balance instead of convergence...I think...
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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 5:42 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Auto is when you have a special computer and camera attached to the projector so it can do a type of ACON only with white balance instead of convergence...I think... |
You are right. I hit the Auto under the ref white balance menu but a message saying that no such services or something like that.
G2 voltage
The test points voltage measured are 2.47V (Red G2), 2.46V (Green G2) and 2.46V (Blue G2). It looks like the Black Bias of RGB need to be adjusted to increase the test points voltage to 2.5V. The G2 calibration guide mentioned that if the test points voltage are incorrect, then give up and call service technician. So is it impossible to correct the test points voltage to 2.5V by adjusting the Black Bias values?
Ricky
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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:23 am Post subject: |
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I forget that the G2 test points voltage allowed a deviation of +/- 0.1V from the 2.5V. Doug reminded me that. So the G2 is fine. I feel comfortable without messing the G2. I'm so happy... 
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dropzone7
Joined: 12 Jun 2007
Posts: 1069
Location: Charlotte, NC
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| Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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| rickycleung wrote: | | I forget that the G2 test points voltage allowed a deviation of +/- 0.1V from the 2.5V. Doug reminded me that. So the G2 is fine. I feel comfortable without messing the G2. I'm so happy... |
I remember having this exact same discussion when I did my G2. I was relieved to find that after all my hard work I was well within the allowed spec. It also accounted for one of the biggest visual improvements to my picture yet. Now if I could just get my greyscale done...
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rickycleung
Joined: 09 Apr 2008
Posts: 55
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| Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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Drop,
We went through the same procedures of system board swap. I know what you feel. It seems that not much persons interested about this subject. However I managed to obtain information from this forum and other sources from internet and Doug's advices to solve this problem. How about your greyscale tune up? This may be my next step to do.
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dropzone7
Joined: 12 Jun 2007
Posts: 1069
Location: Charlotte, NC
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| Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:18 pm Post subject: |
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Ricky,
I tried doing greyscale using the Spyder II colorimeter and Kal's guide. While the guide is great, the Spyder II was not. I ended up returning it and have yet to order the Eye One unit. I could see gradual improvements in greyscale using the Spyder II and even just making some adjustments by my own eyes. The readings were all over the place and I never could get the numbers balanced for RGB levels. When I went back and read that Kal had removed his recommendation of the Spyder II then I knew I was just wasting my time with it and gave up. I have been putting off the purchase of the Eye One as I continue to see revisions to the guide and the processes but I think it may be time to give it another shot.
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