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Sony 27" CRT no power but, fuse ok

 
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 8:57 pm    Post subject: Sony 27" CRT no power but, fuse ok

I got a free TV ( again ) and I pluged it in. I get no power, it doesn't even try to power up. The main AC fuse seem's ok. Any idea's where to start?

I'm going to have a look at the power switch now.

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macgyver655



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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:15 pm    Post subject:

Model Number.........
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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:25 pm    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
Model Number.........

I knew this was comming.

I'll get back to you. THe model number label is damaged....lemme see if I can make it out.

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AnalogRocks
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TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:39 pm    Post subject:

It's hard to say. Maybe you can decipher it.

Possibly KM 29T829??



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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:45 pm    Post subject:

One more. Maybe KV 27TS29?


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secstate



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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject:

Does the LED power light flash at all when you try to power it up? The number of flashes, at least on newer sets is an indication of at least where the set feels the problem is. This forum has some good info on repairing Sony direct view and rear projection sets. http://www.agoraquest.com/viewforum.php?forum=34
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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 10:00 pm    Post subject:

secstate wrote:
Does the LED power light flash at all when you try to power it up? The number of flashes, at least on newer sets is an indication of at least where the set feels the problem is. This forum has some good info on repairing Sony direct view and rear projection sets. http://www.agoraquest.com/viewforum.php?forum=34



No, no power, no lights, no HV sound. Nada.

Thanks, I'll look at that link now.

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macgyver655



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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 10:29 pm    Post subject:

That would be a KV27TS29. If I remember that chassis correctly it was a common problem of shorted regulator transistors in the power supply. Something like 601 and 602 I think. There was a kit that also had replacement VR's. Sometimes it would take out the horz output xsistor also. I think I have the manual for that but let me check.
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MikeEby



Joined: 24 Jun 2007
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Location: Osceola, Indiana

Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 10:57 pm    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:








One more. Maybe KV 27TS29?


WOW...CSI...TV repairman. Mr. Green


Mike

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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 11:09 pm    Post subject:

LOL yeah. Here's the best part when I walked around to the botom of the set, (it's face down on a pillow and blanket )


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macgyver655



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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:14 am    Post subject:

Ok, I'm skimmed over the schematics and I see a couple things first. If it's a Canada model the A/C input board is an FA with a fuse labeled F500. If it's a US model the A/C input is an F board with a fuse labeled F50 or 60 (hard to tell). On the power supply board (D board) there is a fuse labeled F602. Check those. Would you rather me talk you through this or do you want me to PM you a copy of the service manual? Have fun........
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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:16 am    Post subject:

Oh please hold my hand Laughing LOL

I'll let you know in a few how the fuses are.

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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:09 am    Post subject:

macgyver655 wrote:
Ok, I'm skimmed over the schematics and I see a couple things first. If it's a Canada model the A/C input board is an FA with a fuse labeled F500. If it's a US model the A/C input is an F board with a fuse labeled F50 or 60 (hard to tell). On the power supply board (D board) there is a fuse labeled F602. Check those. Would you rather me talk you through this or do you want me to PM you a copy of the service manual? Have fun........




It's made in San Diego, CA. The fuse is labeled F601. It's fine.
However there's a blown resistor at R607 and both Q601 and Q602 test as shorted.

I found this post from the forum that secstate gave me.

Here's a picture of the blown resistor:



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macgyver655



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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:33 am    Post subject:

That is the common Sony problem but there are some key info missing there. Those look like the parts that need to be replaced but you also have to check the horiz. output transistor. If the xsistor is good you need to check the solder joints on that xsistor, the horiz drive transformer. Hopefully there will be bad joints. Other wise you may have a bad flyback which you wont know until you replace all the parts and it blows everything out again. Check the horiz xsistor for shorts, check as many solder joints as you can but especially those I suggested, replace the parts on that list and keep you fingers crossed. Then hope you dont have the common Sony weak tube issue............
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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:40 am    Post subject:

Thanks Mac,
Can I get a schematic off you then?

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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 1:47 am    Post subject:

Oh yeah, one more thing, how do you get the HV lead out of the flyback?
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macgyver655



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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 2:40 am    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
Oh yeah, one more thing, how do you get the HV lead out of the flyback?



Ok. 2 things. The HV wire does not come out of the flyback. It must be disconnected from the tube. BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This must be done a certain way because the tube holds a charge for a long, long, long time. Get a jumper lead with clips on both ends and a long flat edge screwdriver. Clip one end of the wire to the metal around the picture tube or the metal gnd wires that are crossing the back of the tube. Clip the other end of the wire to the screwdriver. Now your screwdriver is grounded to the tube ground. Slide the tip of the screwdriver under the rubber boot of the HV wire where it connects to the tube. You should hear a snap when it reaches the metal clip on the end of the wire. Then use the screwdriver to push on the metal clip to release it from the tube. If you have to you can use your finger to lift the rubber boot to see what your doing but only after you hear the snap and keeping the screwdriver in there to keep discharging. Even when your ready to reinstall the wire, even if weeks from now, hook up your wire and screwdriver and discharge that tube. These tubes are different then projectors in this issue. Just be careful. As long as the tv is unplugged, its capacitive discharge and isn't lethal but smarts bad. I've gotten wacked a couple a... a..... a..... couple a..... a..... a.... couple a...a....a... couple times and I'm fine. Hehehe .
Have fun.


Last edited by macgyver655 on Sun May 11, 2008 2:57 am; edited 1 time in total
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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 2:45 am    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
Thanks Mac,
Can I get a schematic off you then?


Wait don't rr rrr rrrun away just yet. When you get a chance can you fire this off to me please?

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macgyver655



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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 2:55 am    Post subject:

I was looking for your email. Thought I had it saved but I can't find it. PM it to me and I'll send it now. To large for PM.
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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:08 pm    Post subject:

Schematic recieved. Thanks Mac.
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