CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Robert A. Hill · Joined: 19 May 2006 Posts: 182 Location: Simpsonville, SC

The RCA HD56W66 is a rear projection crt set which does not really fit here, but you guys are the best at finding resources. I hope someone can point me in the right direction on this.

I got this 1.5 year old set for almost nothing. My nephew is splitting with his fiance and they are selling their home. This set was bought during happy days and now neither wants to invest anything in it or anythng else they purchased together. The set powers on with no issues,but the convergence system is dead.

The chassis is the ITC222 which is widely used. The most plausible causes from what I have read are:
convergence board,
convergence power board, or
the small signal board (SSB).

The problem is that there are little or no DIY sites like Curts for RPTV repair. I have found several Tech sites, but they only suggest board swaps which can run into $$$ as the boards have to be purchased at retail and at oriented to repair shops, not us.

I cannot find a photo detailing which board is where and its function. I'd like to at least check for solder problems on connector issues, but It would be nice to know where to start. Any chance that I could post a photo and you can help me identify the boards? I can buy the service manual for $40, but I was told this mainly a schematic and parts list with no troubleshooting or breakdown information.

Also, the boards are a nightmare to remove and make me appreciate my Ampros! They are clipped into a plastic tray with MANY clips that do not lock in an open position. When I get several open, they snap back over the board again. My son said they look like some notebooks he's seen where you had to have a fixture that would slip into the tray to hold all the clips open as you remove the PWB. Can this be true for all the models of TVs out there?

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Have you tried adjusting the convergence from the service menu?

Robert A. Hill · Joined: 19 May 2006 Posts: 182 Location: Simpsonville, SC

I got into the service menu, but the convergence option was not available. I saw an "error 84" which means that the convergence option was not detected. The cause could be one of the three boards in my original post. I'm so used to our communities detailed system teardowns and board function explanations available for out FP systems. Our systems are almost always needing specialized repair and these resources are a great start. Maybe I'm going to have to go back to basics and research RPTVs in general to get comfortable with the sub-systems in them. They have all the elements of our general purpose projectors, but the terminology is sort of new to me. Also, I am a visually oriented type that learns better from seeing a photo or illustration than a wordy explanation. (For instance, it's hard to clearly describe to me a CRT amplifier chip but very easy for me to recognize it from an arrow on a photo.)

One tech thread suggested that one of three fuse links on the convergence power supply board could be open. This would be simple to check, but these links have no exposed traces or leads. I have to remove the board to test these. The PWB tray clips and insanely difficult to move lead connectors make this simple check a PITA. No wonder the shops charge hundreds of bucks in labor for a simple test and repair. The three boards cost $250 total, but most of us aren't here because we like to spend dough on fixing things when our time is free. At least the Ampros have taught me patience and persistence Smile

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Its my understanding, for that chassis that if convergence is missing from the menu there is a blown fuse somewhere but I only have parts of that service manual so can't tell you exactly where it is. If I find it I'll post it.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

The 3 fuse links should be by the flyback.

Robert A. Hill · Joined: 19 May 2006 Posts: 182 Location: Simpsonville, SC

Thanks macqyver, I finally got the board out and the middle fuse was blown. Mouser has it for $0.50! I'll replace it next week when i get the fuse and touch up the solder joint for the flyby transformer. Wow, if this works I'll have a almost new 56" HDTV RPTV (and CRT at that!) for $10. Maybe I'll even get a "You Suck" out of this one.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 11:00 pm Post subject:

How about "You're close to sucking?"

If this works out you'll be the second here to grab a RPTV for next to nothing this month. Thumbs Up

Robert A. Hill · Joined: 19 May 2006 Posts: 182 Location: Simpsonville, SC

Yeah, second place looks pretty good right now.

I shorted the fuse link to verify that this was all that was needed. System started right up with perfect convergence. I'll install the fuse this week to restore protection. This is another time that the experience I have gained working on FP projectors paid off. It was good to be able to work on this and save hundreds of dollars for a service call. Of course having you guys at my back sure helps!

Fujifrontier · Joined: 20 Oct 2007 Posts: 354 Location: San Antonio, Texas

if i only had the ROOM for another rptv

mrfix · Joined: 12 Jun 2008 Posts: 16

I just came across this post searching for "the answer".
Have a ITC222 (D52W23), this morning the picture gave a flash then to a fish eye with convergence separation. Local shops want $300-$400. I found Shocked

the fuses mentioned, test and found the MIDDLE one (400mA) open. Must be underrated or short somewhere common Question

What numbers/letters do I use to ID this fuse? Any input on replacing is appreciated!

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Robert A. Hill · Joined: 19 May 2006 Posts: 182 Location: Simpsonville, SC

Mr Fix,
That fuse was the problem. I replaced it and touched up all the solder joints in the vicinity including the flyback transformer. Ihave had no more issues. I do not believe it is underrated.

Mouser #: 576-3960400000
Mfr. #: 39604000000
Desc.: Fuses - Axial Lead, Radial Lead, and Cartridge 125V UL TL LL .400A TE5

PM sent

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

A bad solder joint would most definitely take out the fuse. Make sure you check various points like Robert did so it doesn't go out again.

mrfix · Joined: 12 Jun 2008 Posts: 16

I was able to locate the fuse link through a local repair shop for $5. The picture stayed correct for a several minutes and blew again. I did check the joints real close and the only thing that would come close was some flux discoloration in many areas on the board. I hate to start randomly soldering Confused

or start replacing boards, any other thoughts?

Crying or Very sad

Robert A. Hill · Joined: 19 May 2006 Posts: 182 Location: Simpsonville, SC

Yes, I saw cold joints on the components in this resisters in this area and one on the flyback. Its typical for consumer electronics, and I am sensitive to these since had to touch up several Ampro HVPS with the issue. Be sure to remove all flux residue as it is an issue in any high voltage area. I have also read that the convergence circuit may blow fuses when the convergence chips has failed:

These sites and others have documented this on all brands of CRT RPTVs:

http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/manufacturers-service-support/5600-crt-based-rptv-convergence-repairs.html

If the cold joints are not an issue, this would be the next step. Still a DIY fix and preferable to scrapping the set.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

I dont believe the RCA uses the STK series ic's but can't verify yet. I would follow the circuit traces on the board in both directions from the fuse and check the solder joints along the way. I only have part of the schematics for that chassis but not for the convergence circuit. I'm trying to locate one.

mrfix · Joined: 12 Jun 2008 Posts: 16

I have pretty good close-up vision but I took a lighted magnifying glass and looked real close, I will say there were several joints I questioned on the flyback transformer and even one looking a little darker indicating possible arching in the joint. I touched them up so we'll give'er a try again tomorrow when I get another... or two fuses. If not it's going to have to be a new TV and a project to play with, sure not in the budget for a new one but if she eventually works I'll have one for the bedroom or my shop! Laughing

mrfix · Joined: 12 Jun 2008 Posts: 16

Ok, installed the fuse and now working for 5 hours so keeping my fingers crossed it solved the problem. And yes it must have been a cold joint in the fly transformer area. Thank-you everyone for the input! Very Happy

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:45 am Post subject:

mrfix · Joined: 12 Jun 2008 Posts: 16

yep that's what I plan to do today! Thumbs Up

Since everyone has such good info, are there any tips on cleaning and calibration? I remember pulling the lens on an old Mitsu and cleaning the lens, mirror, lamps etc. Other than having ten million screws where the old mitsu unclipped...

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:59 pm Post subject: