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BG808s vs. Cine 8 Onyx
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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:32 pm    Post subject: BG808s vs. Cine 8 Onyx

OK, so I got reminded of this via the AC/LC discussion going on somewhere else right now, and it occurred to me to ask: What are the main differences between the BG808s and the Cine 8 Onyx, and how important are they to PQ?

The main ones I can think of would be LC vs. AC, tube resolving ability, color filtering, and... anything else? Signal path differences? The basic specs seem similar.

I've also heard of people upgrading 808s to Cine8s, so I'm curious what it takes to do that, or whether it's even worth it even if you can find good tubes...?

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:36 pm    Post subject:

The Onyx adds the following important things:

- Liquid coupled lens/CRT assembly for greater contrast and less halo'ing. HD-215 lenses are used instead of HD-8's. The Cine 8 Onyx is in fact the only 8" Barco front projector with liquid coupling.

- Tinted (colour filtered) c-elements are used in the LC'ed assembly for the Red and Green lenses for more accurate colours. Other than the Cine series, all other 8" and 9" EM focusing Barcos are use clear c-elements or clear glycol. Projectors without tinted glycol/c-elements tend to display red as red/orange and green as green/yellow.

- Less important: The optional Contrast Modulation board is installed for even colour/brightness across the screen (left to right). See the document from Barco for more information on the Zenith 1200 page.

It also adds the following less important things:

- The Cine 8 Onyx (and the Cine 9) are equipped with the Limo Pro built-in scaler. The Cine 8 and Zenith 1200 do not include this feature. (No loss, external scalers are much better anyway. Anyone running a Cine 8/9 with the built in scaler is doing themselves a disservice!)

- Black case.

Kal

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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:41 pm    Post subject:

Hmm, so I'm pretty much there aside from LC. I'm going to be filtering the lenses, I'm going to do contrast modulation in software with avisynth, and I'm scaling with ffdshow! Also I'm planning on painting it black. Razz

Yeah, I did some experimenting with the filters, and it makes a HUUUUUGE difference. If you look at it side by side, the unfiltered red looks almost ridiculous!

I wonder if there'd be some way to get the optical effect of LC while using the same tubes... eh, probably not without hosing the image up completely in other ways. Too bad tubes are so expensive. Sad

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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:56 pm    Post subject:

The signal path is better. The port 5/switcher board is two minor revisions (if memory serves) newer.

I do not consider the CM board minor. CRTs have terrible uniformity. A CRT has around 67% uniformity (or worst on larger screens) compared to some of the better digitals in this regard which get close to 90% uniformity. You can get over 85% uniformity with the CM board.

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kal
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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:58 pm    Post subject:

How'd you adjust CM on your Dave? Just eyeball it? Moving a colorimeter around to measure levels at various points of the screen seems too much of a pain to me.

Kal

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r.bauer



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Location: The Netherlands

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 9:07 pm    Post subject:

The Cine 8 has color filtered HD8 lenses, which are very rare.
The original Cine 8 was later updated to the Cine 8 digital: http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/BarcoCine8Digital_Brochure.pdf

EDIT: Reading the first post for the second time, you are not comparing the regular Cine 8, but the Cine 8 Onyx. So this is a bit OT.
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jkruger



Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 9:22 pm    Post subject:

perisoft wrote:

I wonder if there'd be some way to get the optical effect of LC while using the same tubes... eh, probably not without hosing the image up completely in other ways. Too bad tubes are so expensive. Sad


Why not make some clear acrylic inserts that would attach to the tube face and have the same contour as the lc faces? Flat on one side and concave on the other?
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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 9:24 pm    Post subject:

kal wrote:
How'd you adjust CM on your Dave? Just eyeball it? Moving a colorimeter around to measure levels at various points of the screen seems too much of a pain to me.

Kal


When I was playing around with it before (with an improvised screen, etc etc) I set up a digital SLR as close to the projector as possible, and took raw photos of each of the primaries. Then I switched them to grayscale, inverted them, auto-leveled them so they were full range. I took each of these inversion maps and, in avisynth, wrote a filter which overlaid the inversion map on each channel, knocking the brightness back where the inversion map was dark. So, the 'power' with which I applied this filter determined the amount of contrast modulation. Theoretically, if you set the original maps so the brightest bit of the raw photo was full-scale, a straight inversion+add, without 'expanding' the map through the full range, should be 'correct', but I haven't tested that.

From there, I basically eyeballed it - I threw up R/G/B images, and 'bounced' back and forth between 'too much' and 'too little' until I got a good idea where the center was visually. I could probably do this better by using the camera to figure out the ratios, but like I said, I was just screwing around.

This technique has the added benefit of knocking out any uneven tube wear, compensating for screen hotspotting (at least from the position the photos are taken, but there's a benefit from any sane seating position), and compensating for color shift (since the inversion maps are per-channel - the red hotspot and the blue hotspot are separated from the green one quite obviously, even with a pretty matte surface). It'll also compensate for minor imperfections in the screen surface, again assuming it's matte.

The negative is that you have to be careful or you sacrifice a lot of brightness; if you want the far corners to perfectly match the center, the whole image gets dimmer (obviously). So you have to decide how aggressive to be.

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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 9:26 pm    Post subject:

jkruger wrote:
perisoft wrote:

I wonder if there'd be some way to get the optical effect of LC while using the same tubes... eh, probably not without hosing the image up completely in other ways. Too bad tubes are so expensive. Sad


Why not make some clear acrylic inserts that would attach to the tube face and have the same contour as the lc faces? Flat on one side and concave on the other?


From the diagram Curt has in the primer, it appears that the inside of the LC tube face is curved itself. This makes sense; the curved c-element needs to be compensated for by something. Adding a curved element to an AC faceplate would be like sticking a magnifying glass in there, essentially.

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CRT_Ben



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Location: Northern Virginia

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 9:51 pm    Post subject:

perisoft wrote:
jkruger wrote:
perisoft wrote:

I wonder if there'd be some way to get the optical effect of LC while using the same tubes... eh, probably not without hosing the image up completely in other ways. Too bad tubes are so expensive. Sad


Why not make some clear acrylic inserts that would attach to the tube face and have the same contour as the lc faces? Flat on one side and concave on the other?


From the diagram Curt has in the primer, it appears that the inside of the LC tube face is curved itself. This makes sense; the curved c-element needs to be compensated for by something. Adding a curved element to an AC faceplate would be like sticking a magnifying glass in there, essentially.


The LC tube face is not curved. Many LC and non-LC machines use the same tubes - A Marquee 8500 uses the same tubes as an 8500LC. The curve in the C-element is compensated for by curves in the rear elements of the lenses.
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jkruger



Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA

Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject:

I make viewports and outer lenses for underwater cameras from cast acrylic. What are the temperatures involved in this area of the tube? Could an insert be coupled (glued?) to the tube face well enough (physically and optically) to have no negative influence on the image? I can create almost any curvature on a surface, and polish it to optical quality. I think it would be easy to make something to essentially replace the c-element, and then all you need are the correct lc type lenses to fit. Wouldn't that work?
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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:16 am    Post subject:

In that case, couldn't you just mate the flat back of a c-element with the flat face of a tube, and switch to an LC lens? Seems like more people would do this if it was that easy. Obviously you'd have to machine new mounts, but that wouldn't be that bad (at least for me, since I have a machine shop... Razz). Unfortunately c-elements + lenses are kind of out of my budget right now, but it'd be great if possible, and a hell of a lot cheaper than a new set of tubes!
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CRT_Ben



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:42 am    Post subject:

perisoft wrote:
In that case, couldn't you just mate the flat back of a c-element with the flat face of a tube, and switch to an LC lens? Seems like more people would do this if it was that easy. Obviously you'd have to machine new mounts, but that wouldn't be that bad (at least for me, since I have a machine shop... Razz). Unfortunately c-elements + lenses are kind of out of my budget right now, but it'd be great if possible, and a hell of a lot cheaper than a new set of tubes!


1. C-elements have no flat surfaces. It looks like a big contact lens.

2. What you guys are talking about is basically re-creating LC mounting hardware. Save yourself some time and just buy the appropriate hardware. Barcos are ESPECIALLY easy because there were TONS of barco retros produced.

3. You're not listening...*There are NO LC-specific tubes...just AC tubes mounted in LC hardware*
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:53 am    Post subject:

kal wrote:
How'd you adjust CM on your Dave? Just eyeball it? Moving a colorimeter around to measure levels at various points of the screen seems too much of a pain to me.

Kal


It is not that many points as the barco has the taper built in. You are already measuring the center, you just need to measure the right and left edges.

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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:54 am    Post subject:

Ben,

The reason I'm confused is that every time I hear about someone doing an LC conversion, they're changing the tubes. And whenever I hear about LC vs. AC projectors of the same basic type, the tubes seem to be different. So I kind of thought there was an intrinsic difference. If there isn't, that's great, because it means I can do a conversion without breaking the bank! (I haven't got a lot of time, but I've got more time than money... if only a little bit...)

At any rate, I don't have the money to just go out and buy the appropriate hardware. My entire HT budget, after I resell components I've fixed to flip for a profit, will be less than the cost of three c-elements. Yes, it would be great to get the right hardware and have it be less hassle and a more certain result, but I haven't got that luxury. And I get a charge out of finding new ways to do things, which is why I'm asking the questions!

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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:57 am    Post subject:

Person99 wrote:
kal wrote:
How'd you adjust CM on your Dave? Just eyeball it? Moving a colorimeter around to measure levels at various points of the screen seems too much of a pain to me.

Kal


It is not that many points as the barco has the taper built in. You are already measuring the center, you just need to measure the right and left edges.


My experience was that I could have a second monitor output in photoshop driving the projector, and run a slider back and forth, and watch the center vs. the sides of the image 'pop' in and out like a snapple cap. Put it in the middle and you get this incredibly smooth color... it really looks cool, almost like a window, because your eyes expect SOMETHING to be wrong.

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CRT_Ben



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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 1:01 am    Post subject:

perisoft wrote:
Ben,

The reason I'm confused is that every time I hear about someone doing an LC conversion, they're changing the tubes. And whenever I hear about LC vs. AC projectors of the same basic type, the tubes seem to be different. So I kind of thought there was an intrinsic difference. If there isn't, that's great, because it means I can do a conversion without breaking the bank! (I haven't got a lot of time, but I've got more time than money... if only a little bit...)

At any rate, I don't have the money to just go out and buy the appropriate hardware. My entire HT budget, after I resell components I've fixed to flip for a profit, will be less than the cost of three c-elements. Yes, it would be great to get the right hardware and have it be less hassle and a more certain result, but I haven't got that luxury. And I get a charge out of finding new ways to do things, which is why I'm asking the questions!


Fair enough - the reason you'll see people changing tubes is because there is significant time and effort involved in extracting your tubes from AC hardware and mounting them in LC hardware. Thus, unless you have minty like-new tubes with almost no wear, the amount of labor involved makes it a good idea to get new tubes at the same time.

I recommended buying the barco hardware because busted retro 808's should be fairly cheap and available, and I really think that you would end up spending more trying to make your own hardware, regardless of how you tried to make it. But, 8" LC just isn't in a $300 budget, no matter how you stack it up, which is fine - kudos for putting together an enjoyable system for so little.

Edit: Study the Projector Specs and learn them well, grasshoppa: http://www.curtpalme.com/PJSpecs_Electrohome.shtm (look at 8500 vs 8500LC tube models)
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perisoft



Joined: 29 Aug 2007
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Location: Ithaca, NY

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 1:14 am    Post subject:

I've already got the PJ, though the tubes aren't fantastic. Like I said, if I had the money for new tubes... Smile

But I'm quite familiar with swapping tubes, and swapping the hardware on the tubes, since I swapped all there (and then another) from bare tubes. It'll be tricker with the best on the ceiling, but I think I can swing it if there's a good upgrade in the offing.

At any rate, I've managed to get myself together a pretty good HT room for almost nothing when all's said and done, so I'm sure that if I concentrate I can manage the hardware for an LC conversion somehow...

That's part of what I love about this hobby. If I had a bucket of cash to throw at it, and BANG, had an expertly set-up G90 blend, a kick-ass audio system, perfect seating and lighting, etc, and hired somebody to come in and have it done NEXT WEEK, I don't think it would be nearly as satisfying.

I've loved every minute of the time I've spent figuring out my HT stuff, because the community kicks ass, and there's just so much stuff to learn! It's fantastic! And when I get done learning the latest thing, I get to crank it all up and watch Transformers! Very Happy

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kal
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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 1:35 am    Post subject:

Person99 wrote:
kal wrote:
How'd you adjust CM on your Dave? Just eyeball it? Moving a colorimeter around to measure levels at various points of the screen seems too much of a pain to me.

Kal


It is not that many points as the barco has the taper built in. You are already measuring the center, you just need to measure the right and left edges.

Top and bottom too I suppose? Since the CM menu items let you do both directions.

Uniformity's something that has never bothered me at all. I can see it on an all even coloured screen but with any real content I can't. It may be because my screen is fairly low gain (1.1-1.2).

Kal

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perisoft



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Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 1:46 am    Post subject:

I don't really notice uniformity too much in *general* but it really seems to jump out and smack me in the face in super high contrast bright scenes - the reaver planet scenes in Serenity, for instance, where there's a lot of blown out white, and panning to go with it.

It might matter more to me because my tubes are worn, too - so it's much more obvious. I'll have to do some A/B watching when I get everything up and running. I'd do it double-blind but then I wouldn't be able to see anything. *rimshot*

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