CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Ashfallen · Joined: 04 May 2008 Posts: 5

Hi.

Yesterday I bought, through Ebay, 5 Ampro 4000Gs and a large number of assorted parts for them, many of which appear to be unopened in their boxes/packets. I paid A$511 for all this, and if I can get at least one of the things working, I'll consider it a bargain. If not, I'll take offers on the parts. (I live in Brisbane, Australia, if anyone's thinking of making me an offer. Smile

I would like to get it working, it's a interesting project idea, but I'm not committed to it and if someone more keen wants the parts, well, you can have 'em for what I paid plus any shipping etc costs, and I'll go implement Plan B.)

I'd also trade parts for in-person help and tuition, if anyone reading this is in Brisbane. Smile

Anyway. Included in the deal was an operating manual and a technical manual, and I have skimmed through both. I consider myself familiar with electronics and computers at an expert-user level (ie, I can generally figure out what does what, and replace a dud part with a working version of the same part). I've put together and upgraded several dozen computers over the last twenty years; I'm not afraid of a screwdriver. Smile

Once my friend and I got the things home (I hadn't expected them to be anywhere near so huge and heavy!), I designated the best-looking of the 5, with the cleanest interior, to be the "recipient". My plan is to pull any dud parts out of it, and replace them with hopefully-working parts from the others. However, so far, so bad. I've hit a major snag immediately, and I'm hoping someone here might be able and willing to help me.

According to the operating manual, I should plug in a remote to the "HOST" RS232 socket, plug a power lead into the projector, turn on the rocker switch, and it should spin up the power supply fan, turn on the (external) power supply LED and (internal) fuse LEDs, and show an "INITIALIZING" message on the remote.

However, the remote LCD lights up but shows no message, three of the CR9 lights turn on, the fans do not spin up, the rear panel LED and fuse LEDs do not turn on, and nothing further occurs.

I've unscrewed the fuse panel and checked that all of the fuses are intact. I've tried several of the remotes, to no avail. I've swapped out three of the AC/DC power switching units, to no avail.

The CR9 light status, looking at it from above with the CRT lenses to my left and the back panel to my right, are as follows:
1 - off
2 - steady red
3 - steady red
4 - off
5 - off
6 - off
7 - faint flicker red
8 - steady red
9 - off
10 - off

According to the manual, this indicates a "1[sup]2[/sup]C" fault, which I believe is a CPU fault. I've swapped out two CPU boards so far, and all have displayed the same behavior. Could this be a CPU battery issue? Is it just a 760mAH/3.6V lithium battery like any other, and will replacing it with one potentially solve the problem?

Why would the fuse LEDs stay dark, the fans not spin up, and the rear panel LED stay dark?

Any suggestions are welcome, please. Offers for it all are welcome too. I want to get it working, or get rid of it to someone who will make use of the huge numbers of parts. I'm not strongly committed to either course of action. Smile

Tom.W · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635

Heres a link to lots of Ampro info.

http://dion.swamp.dk/ampro4200g.html

No Ampro jokes for now .... Wink

Also read this.

http://www.curtpalme.com/Ampro3600.shtm

jantje112 · Joined: 17 Jul 2006 Posts: 328

Probably fitted with the sd146a tubes. It's ES focessed. The projector should deliver a good image, afterall it's 9" and LC. Repair one, keep one for parts and sell the rest for parts. What lenses does it use?

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

First guess is it sounds like a remote address or baud rate problem. Refer to Chapter 10, around page 89 to check and/or change settings on the CPU board to match the remote.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Was #8 led lit with all the cpu boards you tried. Do you remember which cpu was the original to the projector your testing. If one of the cpu's happens to have different firmware you may get that I2C fault. Other wise there maybe a communication problem with another board in the projector. I know on the newer cpu boards you can turn off the I2C test with one of the switches on the cpu board. Not sure on the older board. Even with the fault though you should still have read out on the remote which is why I think it maybe a remote address problem. You can use a volt meter to test the battery on the cpu board. Still not sure if a dead battery would cause no remote screen though. Good luck.

stefuel · Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:23 pm Post subject:

I think it's a remote address issue also. I can't remember the dip switch settings for the 4000G but it should say in the manual. They were probably all from one installation and controlled in a host/slave configuration. If so, it's a simple dip switch change.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:56 pm Post subject:

Your first thing to check is the memory battery on the CPU board. Guaranteed it's flat. Should read above 3.5 volts. If it's under 3, the set will do all sorts of strange stuff, including the blank remote screen w/no powerup. Usually the set will then also go into 'executive' mode, and you need to enter '909, code' to unlock it again.

Since you have 5 sets, check the layout of the registration board, and if they are the same between all 5 sets, swap out CPU boards if you find one with a good memory battery. If not, I have memory batteries here, or google 'keeper II' and you should find someone that has them. Ampro made about 5 versions of the 2000/4000 chassis, the CPU boards will not interchange between models and work correctly. But until you get 'Ampro 4000' showing on the remote at main power turnon, you're not getting anywhere with these sets.

Important: If you do board swaps, label the boards so you know which one came out of one chassis. Ampro did enough circuit changes back then that you might cause operational issues if you swap boards at random. That messed me up too many times while working on sets here.

I might be interested in some of the HD10 lenses that are on those sets, as I'm out.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 2:03 pm Post subject:

BTW, can you link to that auction so we know what you have? I can't find it in the completed listings on eBay.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 5:36 pm Post subject:

Welcome to the Ampro 4000. Keep ALL the spare part's. You're gonna need them.

They throw a good picture once setup. It's keeping them running that's the challenge. I've had issue's with mine in the two year's I've owned it. Usualy R22 resistor on the neck card's and HVPS ( high voltage power supply's ). I did have a registration board issue too.

First however you'll have to get it up and running. Good luck.

stefuel · Posted: Sun May 04, 2008 6:05 pm Post subject:

Ashfallen · Joined: 04 May 2008 Posts: 5

TomW,
thanks for the links.

jantje112,
I haven't got anywhere near lens or focus issues yet. Smile

macgyver655, steufel,
both remote and CPU board are set to 9600 baud.

Curt,
I'll try the other boards, although all are of the same age, so unless by chance one battery had decayed early and been replaced while the projector was still in use, I don't like my chances. I'll check the local electronics stores for a lithium battery with the same V and mAH. Should 909-Code get the projector to power up without the CPU battery? (I'll try it anyway.)

I'm thinking I should sort and label everything, and index it all. This will make keeping track of what has been tried with what easier, as well as selling it off if it comes to that, if I can't get it working. The auction listing was very much a "job lot".

Here's the auction number: 270232423930

stefuel · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:06 am Post subject:

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

The baud rate is only 1 part in the communication chain of remote to cpu. If they were used in a network system many other things have to be looked at. Rotary switches 1 and 2 must be at 0, Dip switch 4, switch 2 must be on and you must check the position of jumpers LK1 and LK2 on the cpu board. This is all explained in the manual. If you dont check all these items, including opening up the remote to check those switches, you will never get it to communicate, no matter how many batteries you throw at it. You must read chap 10 very carefully and apply what you need.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

I was just looking over your first post here where you indicate which leds are lit on the cpu board. Either you numbered them wrong or there is another problem. Leds are 1-10 from left to right looking straight at the card. Normally, 8 and 9 should be on steady and 4 should be flashing. Recheck the leds lit according to number sequence and post back.

stefuel · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:11 am Post subject:

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:05 pm Post subject:

OK wait guys. Before you send him chasing all over the set, there's a good chance that the last owner didn't get into messing with any of the settings you're talking about. I do that sometimes too, thinking maybe someone got into a set and messed with something obscure, but that's never happened. Only one out of about 200 people are knob happy... OK, that sounded wrong.. Smile

1 out of 200 people will get into a set and mess with stuff that they are not supposed to, so a dead display set has some fault caused over time, which is why I recommended checking those batteries. Also, I have had one set develop corrosion in the rotary address switches, so wiggle those around and make sure all 3 are set to 0.

If the set got set to executive mode, the only functions that will work are power and switching the source, and a couple of others. All other buttons are locked out so that the highly paid military executives don't push the RED button.. Very Happy

But the sets will still power up.

Has anyone thought that these might be the only Ampros down under that were ever used in a military installation? How did Ampro infiltrate Australia anyways?

stefuel · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:42 pm Post subject:

1 in 200???............ Now it's confirmed, Curt's officially lost it Wink

What planet/forum are you on? How many people have been told "DO NOT TOUCH ANY POTS OR G2 ON A NEC PG" but went ahead and did it anyway. Shocked

On this forum, I place that figure more like 1 in 10. They just won't admit to it Laughing

As far as this thread goes, he has been told about 3-4 times to check the CPU battery. I'm not exactly sure but 909[code] will only work after it powers up.

All as I have suggested is to check the baud and address settings to confirm that they are correct. All as that is, is a physical inspection, no tools required. If he hasn't checked the battery yet it ain't my bad Wink

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:08 pm Post subject:

Right. I meant to say, only one in 200 screw up after my verbal flogging.. Wink

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Ashfallen · Joined: 04 May 2008 Posts: 5

Thanks again. Smile

I've only tried three of the CPU boards, I think I have at least seven in total. Didn't get a chance to look at it today, but I think when I do, I'd be best off labelling and listing all of the components I have, to make the whole process easier. The dip switches on the one remote I have so far unscrewed (the one I used for testing) are all set to "off off off off" and the hexadecimal rotary things are all set to 0, 0, 0 on the three boards I looked at. I think this indicates that the projectors were not networked using their own internal networking function. (Or else this was done after they were taken down.)

The guy I bought it from told me that the projectors had originally belonged to the RAAF (Royal Australian Air Force) for use in a flight simulator, and had been sold on to a theme park (Movieworld, according to a label on one of the boxes). He didn't actually say so, and I didn't think to ask, but I think he himself works or worked at the theme park.

I'll borrow a multimeter and check the batteries tomorrow.

FWIW, I've carefully avoided touching any potentiometers. Which isn't to say anyone else did. Smile