CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

I have been playing around using the Eye-one Display2LT and HCFR.
I wanted to see what the differences would be when using the probe in various
configurations. for the most part it seems it doesnt matter that much
from my results. Now Mind you I still have a lot to do to get my greyscale flat but i'm still learning this,
and i must say this is a lot of fun, except for my eyes bugging out!!
My projector is the Marquee 8500 with HD 144 lens and moome card, an LGBH100
Combo player,and Lumagen HDQ Video processor . I did the adjustments to 20 IRE and 80 IRE then
measured greyscale here are the results.

First reading using Kals advice probe with diffusor facing screen

Now Readings using no diffusor facing screen

this seems a bit smoother

Now Facing Projector up near screen with diffusor

not much difference with previous readings

So now i need t get the blue hump down and raise it after 80 IRE as I can see a green tint in the 90 and 100 IRE windows, Even though the Mids to the eye look good the Probe says otherwise. I put on Grand Prix and it did look better than my "by Eye" calibration, so bad i didnt even save the greyscale reading too embarassing ! Wink

I wish they had a way to show the value of the readings in the colorspace chart.

Not sure if this will help any one but just wanted to post my findings with the EYE ONE Display2LT at least, I am getting a Spyder2 also so I'll add to this post when i get a chance to do the same.

Athanasios

garyfritz · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

**kal** · Posted: Thu May 01, 2008 12:17 am Post subject:

Wow, your classic "CRT Blue Hump" looks *exactly* like the one I made up to use for my guide!
Funny! Mine's not even real readings. I completely made it up the numbers! (Easier to do).

Anyway, I'm working on the tricks and tips section and the blue hump correction is the first one in there. Here's what I've written so far if it helps (probably not, you already know all this):

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Yepp I defocused it a little before i did the cal, but not a lot just a few clicks, i know it needs more but I also think I have a weak Blue tube as its drive value is over the limit
that Tim Martin suggest over on his greyscale set up tech tip, its at 79 right now which is way to high. I might try to add more blue defocus and see what that does but i am keeping it like this till i get the Spyder2 and do a set of reading just like i did with the Eye One. we'll see how close they are.

Athanasios

**kal** · Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 1:10 am Post subject:

The Eye-One is highly regarded over at AVS so I've spent some more time looking into it vs my current Spyder2. I don't recommend the Spyder2 at all due to the variances you may see but instead recommend the Eye-One. IF suppose if you're going to use their expensive software you might as well do it right.

So I just placed an order for the the Eye-One Display LT (~$140 USD) sensor. What the hell eh? (Not only is this guide taking a whole pile of time, it's now actually COSTING me money too). Smile

I updated the GREYSCALE CALIBRATION FOR DUMMIES guide with the following information which includes an explanation of the differences:

What tools do I need?

You're going to need a few items to set greyscale properly on your projector/TV. The best part is the price. Total cost is probably only between $70-140 USD for most people as you probably already have a computer (otherwise you couldn't be reading this). Wink

A Colorimeter
Two colorimeters are recommended: The ~$140 Eye-One Display LT or the ~$70 Spyder2. Why pay more for the Eye-One? It's a more accurate sensor and readings do not vary betweenunits. With the Spyder2 every unit tends to read just a little bit differently and you have no way of knowing how accurate your specific unit is. The Eye-One also reads faster (your calibration will take less time) and is better in darker regions. Those of you that would never consider spending more than $70 on greyscale calibration should get the Spyder2. Those that want to do this right should order the Eye-One as it's the better probe and only $70 more. Think of it this way: The Spyder2 will likely get you 80-90% of the way to perfection, the Eye-One will gets you all the way to 100%. Both sensors are an enormous improvement over doing nothing about greyscale or trying to do it 'by eye'. The kits bellow are the least expensive ones as we will not be using the included software. Stay away from the newer $150 Spyder3 as the software we are going to use does not support it (yet).

Kal

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Ok I had a half hour to test the Spyder 2 today before i came to work. Now this was a quick test so i may not have had the best angle to the screen but i felt it was as good as the eye ones placement . One thing i noticed is it takes longer for the lower IRE's. Well I must have got one of the bad units. here are the results
with the same settings as my Eye One calibration at the begining of this thread.

Spyder facing screen with filter

Now Spyder with out the filter

As you can see not very good readings.
I will be fair to say i did not spend as much time as it compared with the Eye One.

i will try again with a more indepth set up

Athanasios

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

I gave the spyder 2express another shot and the same crapy slow reading results . Now time to sell this on e-bay. I was going to
give a more detailed report but its not even worth it.

Athanasios

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Some new findings with the Eye One,

1) Make sure you have the latest .dll file from the Eye ones software, run a chck for latest software and update it before you copy the .dll file to HCFR.

2) I found you get higher* ftL using HCFR and the Eye One if the ambient light box is checked even if you are not using the diffusor. With it unchecked I was getting only about 2 ftL's with it checked i was getting about 12 ftL's. I have no Idea why this is but i tried it a few times even rebooting the computer. My theory is that the screen itself acts as a diffusor and with the Eye-One it may need that setting checked. I suggest anyone who has an Eye One try it and let me know if you find the same results.

Athanasios

* Edit: from "better"

**kal** · Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:31 pm Post subject:

Making sure you have the latest driver is certainly good, but I don't understand how you can say you get "better" ftL radings with the ambient light box checked. What's "better" about it? You mean the number's higher? That doesn't necessarily mean it's more accurate!

Kal

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

KAl I should have said Higher, I dont know why I get higher numbers with the box checked. With the Spyder i was getting in the 10's also . So i dont know why its so low with it unchecked. I read somewhere that it is a good idea to leave it checked i need to find that resource. Also i did the grey scale both ways and they are basicly the same just the foot lamberts numbers are different. Have you tried it this way yet? I'm curious as to why i'm getting it so low when with it one way its higher and with the spyder its high as well.

Athanasios

Person99 · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 4899 Location: Flower Mound, TX

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

But i am only getting 1.8 to 2.3 Foot lamberts with it unchecked!!!! there is no way that is correct, its a lot brighter than that.

Athanasios

Person99 · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 4899 Location: Flower Mound, TX

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Person99 · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 4899 Location: Flower Mound, TX

**kal** · Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 12:42 am Post subject:

In the end the important thing to remember is that the 'better' number doesn't necessarily mean that it's the 'right' number.

Kal

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Ok After working a few sessions this is the best i could do so far with out using the lumagen to correct anything yet. I did some gamma boost with the VimHD but not sure if i set that up the proper way either.

I got most of the hump away but do not think i should defocus any more, I think i need to sharpen up my electronic focus on the red and green first. Also on the CIE Chart, 10 and 0 IRE are way out there, no matter how many times i try to fix it.

Athanasios

Person99 · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 4899 Location: Flower Mound, TX

garyfritz · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO

But even at 20% he's seeing a huge drop in blue. Athanasios, how much did you defocus the blue? I've got mine about 9 off of "sharp" and my blue is pretty flat, see e.g. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=119394#119394.

I see you've got a bit of a rise at 90-100% gray, like I did in one of my original readings. Weird.