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'Greyscale & Colour Calibration for Dummies' Q/A thread
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kal
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Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:26 pm    Post subject:

DeltaE is a numerical representation of how far your measured x/y point is from the actual x/y point on the CIE chart.

Kal

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Scott_R_K



Joined: 30 May 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Rockwood , Ontario

Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 12:56 am    Post subject:

Hi Kal ,

Don't know what happened to the Pic I posted in my last Post . It was there after I Posted it and today it's gone . Was it too large ? Was it removed ? Don't want to break any rules this soon Confused

Just when I felt someone could help me with this .

Scott..................
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delphiplasma



Joined: 06 May 2008
Posts: 14


Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 11:39 am    Post subject:

Thanks Kal, but I'm still a bit in the dark.

The CIE chart will show that my calibration for 'Red' primary matches exactly with reference Primary red, however, the Delta E, for red, is around 19?

On another forum, I've been told to exclude luminance from the Delta E readings. When I do this the Delta E value concurs with the CIE chart.

So, is the reading excluding 'luminance' more correct?

The thing is, is that the colour is definitely under-saturated when the saturation is set for as closer match to the CIE reference chart, red isn't 21% of white etc...

When I do adjust for Red for 21% of white, then the CIE chart is further off the mark in terms of colour saturation. But the colour looks better, all program material looks good. Also, the Delta E value is better with Luminance, but not as good without Luminance when compared to the results which were set to match the reference CIE chart.
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kal
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Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:21 pm    Post subject:

Scott_R_K wrote:
Hi Kal ,

Don't know what happened to the Pic I posted in my last Post . It was there after I Posted it and today it's gone . Was it too large ? Was it removed ? Don't want to break any rules this soon Confused

Just when I felt someone could help me with this .

Scott..................

Nothing was removed. If the picture's too large it simply won't let you post it and the forum software will give you a warning saying so.

Kal

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puremind



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:48 am    Post subject: EyeOne versus DTP-94

In your guide you mention the EyeOne sensors and describe how they compared to the Spyder II sensor.

What about the DTP-94, which can be ordered from Integrated Color Corp:
http://www.integrated-color.com/cedpro/dtp94.html

Many people say it is still the best sensor on the market, even though distribution is now limited to online ordering. Have you got experience (even second-hand) with this sensor and how would you rate it?
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kal
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:18 am    Post subject: Re: EyeOne versus DTP-94

puremind wrote:
In your guide you mention the EyeOne sensors and describe how they compared to the Spyder II sensor.

What about the DTP-94, which can be ordered from Integrated Color Corp:
http://www.integrated-color.com/cedpro/dtp94.html

Never used it, sorry. Never hear much about it either on the online forums.

I would take what that website says with a grain of salt however. They also say that the Spyder 2 is good. Quote: "Long considered an inexpensive third choice for monitor profiling, it turns out that the Spyder2 is really quite good. We've done the testing, and we were impressed."

This goes against every professional calibrator's opinion (and my own) as well.

Quote:
Many people say it is still the best sensor on the market, even though distribution is now limited to online ordering. Have you got experience (even second-hand) with this sensor and how would you rate it?

No, sorry, never used it.

I notice they sell the DTP-94 for $225 which is almost $100 more than the Eye-One. Given that every pro calibrator I've talked to has said that the Eye-One is a great accurate sensor, I would save your money and buy the Eye-One.

Kal

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puremind



Joined: 07 Jun 2008
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:42 am    Post subject: Re: EyeOne versus DTP-94

kal wrote:
puremind wrote:
In your guide you mention the EyeOne sensors and describe how they compared to the Spyder II sensor.

What about the DTP-94, which can be ordered from Integrated Color Corp:
http://www.integrated-color.com/cedpro/dtp94.html

Never used it, sorry. Never hear much about it either on the online forums.

I would take what that website says with a grain of salt however. They also say that the Spyder 2 is good. Quote: "Long considered an inexpensive third choice for monitor profiling, it turns out that the Spyder2 is really quite good. We've done the testing, and we were impressed."

This goes against every professional calibrator's opinion (and my own) as well.

Quote:
Many people say it is still the best sensor on the market, even though distribution is now limited to online ordering. Have you got experience (even second-hand) with this sensor and how would you rate it?

No, sorry, never used it.

I notice they sell the DTP-94 for $225 which is almost $100 more than the Eye-One. Given that every pro calibrator I've talked to has said that the Eye-One is a great accurate sensor, I would save your money and buy the Eye-One.

Kal


I am based in Europe, so because of the exchange rate the DTP-94 cost me only 198 EUR instead of 260-290 EUR for the EyeOne.

Apparently the Xrite DTP-94 is lightly more reliable than the EyeOne:
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/monitor_calibration_tools.htm

The device used to be market leader when the company was taken over by the EyeOne producers but they made a margin-based decision. The Xrite is now sold only inofficially.

For some time there were no Vista drivers available but now both Vista 32 and 64 are available, and most softwares surpport it (BasicColor Display. Color HCFR, Calman, ColorEyes to name a few).

I would be interested in some testing on your side if you are interested, though the test on the link I posted seems to be quite thorough.
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Nashou66



Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY

Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:09 am    Post subject:

Quote:
Apparently the Xrite DTP-94 is lightly more reliable than the EyeOne:
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/monitor_calibration_tools.htm


Even in that review it states they are not sure if the differences are hardware or software related. And they are using the software that comes with the sensor not HCFR, and on monitors not front projection units. I would have to agree with Kal.

Why dont you ask on the HCFR forum about it as I am sure they have someone there who has used it
with HCFR.


Athanasios

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kal
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Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: EyeOne versus DTP-94

puremind wrote:
I am based in Europe, so because of the exchange rate the DTP-94 cost me only 198 EUR instead of 260-290 EUR for the EyeOne.


What country? In my guide I mentioned that non-US people can buy it from B&H Photo Video for about $185 USD (shipping included). That's about $117 EUR. There's no way it should cost you close to $300 EUR. That's over $450 USD!

puremind wrote:
Apparently the Xrite DTP-94 is lightly more reliable than the EyeOne:
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/monitor_calibration_tools.htm

What an odd review of sensors. They do nothing to test the accuracy of the sensors, they just try them all and then report on whether the results "look" better or not. Completely subjective.

I'm not saying the DTP-94 isn't good, just saying that that review is extremely unscientific. The reviews I read on the Eye-One and other sensors compare their results to $13,000 devices like the Photo Research PR-650.

Kal

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timf



Joined: 07 Jul 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Adelaide South Australia

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 1:52 pm    Post subject:

Kal,

In your guide you mention that the green is used as a reference for the blue and red to be adjusted against when setting greyscale, if the green tube is "off" and not calibrated correctly is there a way to initially set this back to what is considered normal before using as a reference point.

I'm dancing all over the place trying to set my greyscale correctly and I'm pretty sure my green tube is not projecting the correct level of green, i'm getting horrible green/blues and extremely bright reds/oranges even though my inital adjustment on the high end scale has all three at or very close to 100% each.

when taking the first set of readings before adjusting red was something like 300%, Green 3% and blue 250%...way off from being correct.
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kal
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:28 pm    Post subject:

timf wrote:
Kal,

In your guide you mention that the green is used as a reference for the blue and red to be adjusted against when setting greyscale, if the green tube is "off" and not calibrated correctly is there a way to initially set this back to what is considered normal before using as a reference point.

Yes, set the colour and greyscale settings in your projector back to the factory defaults.

Quote:
I'm dancing all over the place trying to set my greyscale correctly and I'm pretty sure my green tube is not projecting the correct level of green, i'm getting horrible green/blues and extremely bright reds/oranges even though my inital adjustment on the high end scale has all three at or very close to 100% each.

when taking the first set of readings before adjusting red was something like 300%, Green 3% and blue 250%...way off from being correct.

This is a CRT projector right? Make sure your G2 is set correctly too.

You may also have a problem with your machine.

Kal

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timf



Joined: 07 Jul 2007
Posts: 102
Location: Adelaide South Australia

Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:01 pm    Post subject:

Thanks Kal,

Yep it's my BD808s, I dont think its a problem with my PJ, it 's more a problem of me mucking around too much with the trimpots and not knowing what i'm doing properly Sad

I've tried setting G2 by looking into the lens but the green tube still glows even if the G2 trimpot is turned all the way down, can this be set by checking the voltage, if so what is the correct voltage all 3 tubes should get, 2.5v or is it more?
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kal
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 6:07 pm    Post subject:

I don't know. I would take this to the CRT projector forum and ask there... as it's getting completely off topic.

Kal

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delphiplasma



Joined: 06 May 2008
Posts: 14


Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:54 am    Post subject:

Hi All,

Just one query, regarding the calibration of the Eye One sensor.

It has been advised to place it on a flat black surface. I'm assuming that the calibration is required to set the black level of the sensor? If this is the case, then, I would presume, all you need to do is place it in a black bag or a fully darkened box? It shouldn't matter that the surface is flat, so long as no light gets to the sensor?

Is this correct?

I have to say that I have not seen any real difference in measurements from when I use to calibrate the sensor on front of the plasma screen compared to shutting it in a black bag?
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kal
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject:

delphiplasma wrote:
Hi All,

Just one query, regarding the calibration of the Eye One sensor.

It has been advised to place it on a flat black surface. I'm assuming that the calibration is required to set the black level of the sensor? If this is the case, then, I would presume, all you need to do is place it in a black bag or a fully darkened box? It shouldn't matter that the surface is flat, so long as no light gets to the sensor?

Is this correct?

I have to say that I have not seen any real difference in measurements from when I use to calibrate the sensor on front of the plasma screen compared to shutting it in a black bag?

Correct, though I understand it has to do with temperature calibration too. From my guide:

Quote:
Eye-One users only: You'll need to calibrate the sensor otherwise ColorHCFR will pop up a window asking you to do this before you take your first readings which is annoying if you've got it already taped to the tripod. Click "Calibrate internal sensor offsets" and place the sensor on a flat non-porous opaque surface. A black surface is preferred. The inside of a black DVD case works great. Make sure it's flat and no extra light is getting in there! Select "OK". The calibration only takes a split second. This calibration is one reason why the Eye-One is more accurate than the Spyder2 as it accounts for fluctuations or drifts due to temperature or aging components. Set the "Time during which device calibration remains valid" to 0 to make sure that we don't have to redo a calibration during this session. You'll have to calibrate next time you start up ColorHCFR or unplug/replug the Eye-One.


Kal

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heelsfinl4



Joined: 14 Jun 2008
Posts: 8


Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:03 pm    Post subject:

Kal: Thanks for the terrific stet by step calibration process. I plan on trying to calibrate my next set in this method. I have one problem though. I currently own a Sony XBR1 lcd tv and I will be purchasing a Sony 52w4100 LCD tv in the very near future. After looking through both owner's manuals, I can't find any access to individual color controls (RGB high end and RGB low end) on either tv's. This appears to be a very important to the calibration process. Is there some way I can access these, and if I can't, does that mean I can't calibrate this tv? Thanks in advance
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kal
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Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:19 am    Post subject:

heelsfinl4 wrote:
Kal: Thanks for the terrific stet by step calibration process. I plan on trying to calibrate my next set in this method. I have one problem though. I currently own a Sony XBR1 lcd tv and I will be purchasing a Sony 52w4100 LCD tv in the very near future. After looking through both owner's manuals, I can't find any access to individual color controls (RGB high end and RGB low end) on either tv's. This appears to be a very important to the calibration process. Is there some way I can access these, and if I can't, does that mean I can't calibrate this tv? Thanks in advance

Hi, without any RGB high end and RGB low end controls, you cannot calibrate your greyscale. Simple as that unfortunately. I'm surprised that a Sony XBR wouldn't have such controls however as they're supposed to be 'high end'. Maybe they're in a hidden service menu?

Kal

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heelsfinl4



Joined: 14 Jun 2008
Posts: 8


Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:59 am    Post subject:

Thanks for the reply Kal. My current Sony does not have invidual red.green and blue color controls. Am I correct that this is what RGB high end and RGB low end is? I do think the Sony 52w4100 that I am going to purchase has these controls after all. If that's the case, it looks like I'll be able to calibrate it. I just need to order the calibrator from Amazon.Thanks, and I'm sure this isn't the last question I will have for you!!!
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macgyver655



Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508


Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 9:07 am    Post subject:

heelsfinl4 wrote:
Thanks for the reply Kal. My current Sony does not have invidual red.green and blue color controls. Am I correct that this is what RGB high end and RGB low end is? I do think the Sony 52w4100 that I am going to purchase has these controls after all. If that's the case, it looks like I'll be able to calibrate it. I just need to order the calibrator from Amazon.Thanks, and I'm sure this isn't the last question I will have for you!!!



Your current Sony does have those controls. They are in the service menu.
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heelsfinl4



Joined: 14 Jun 2008
Posts: 8


Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:55 pm    Post subject:

My point was that these controls would be easily available to me on the new Sony. I'm not expert enough to try and dig around in the service menu. It would appear the new Sony has all the controls Ineed to calibrate the set without entering the service menu. Thanks
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